Article
Geography, Physical
Bruno Castelle, Gerd Masselink, Tim Scott, Christopher Stokes, Aikaterini Konstantinou, Vincent Marieu, Stephane Bujan
Summary: Publicly available satellite imagery can offer multi-decadal time series of shoreline data, but uncertainties may arise, especially for beaches with large tidal range and energetic waves. This study at a high-energy beach in France highlights the importance of considering water level and wave runup in accurately estimating shoreline position. Implementing wave runup and a new water level threshold can improve the accuracy of satellite-derived shoreline positions and increase the number of usable images.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Aikaterini Konstantinou, Tim Scott, Gerd Masselink, Kit Stokes, Daniel Conley, Bruno Castelle
Summary: Earth observation coupled with novel image analysis techniques provides a unique and powerful tool for studying shoreline change at different scales. However, satellite-derived shoreline (SDS) data is limited in certain areas and affected by uncertainties related to environmental factors. We used topographic surveys at two macrotidal sites in the UK to investigate the influence of tidal elevation and wave action on SDS accuracy. Our results show that applying appropriate water level corrections can significantly improve SDS accuracy and that the optimal approach depends on the beach type and shoreline translation method used.
Article
Engineering, Civil
A. Astorga-Moar, T. E. Baldock
Summary: The experimental results indicate that accurate predictions for runup on fringing reef-fronted beaches require appropriate wave and water level conditions, and the modified formulations can better describe the runup height.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Lauren Nicole Kim, Katherine L. Brodie, Nicholas T. Cohn, Sarah N. Giddings, Mark Merrifield
Summary: This study uses a stationary lidar mounted on a tower to observe beach elevation change and wave runup during four storm events in Duck, NC, USA. The study assesses the accuracy of 2% runup exceedence estimates and identifies factors that can cause parameterization errors.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Damjan Bujak, Suzana Ilic, Hanna Milicevic, Dalibor Carevic
Summary: This paper addresses the lack of measurements on pocket gravel beaches in limited-fetch environment, especially in the Mediterranean region. The study examines the alongshore variability of wave runup on the pocket beach of Ploce, Croatia, and compares wave runup predictions from five empirical equations with field measurements. The best performing equation is further refined and shows improved accuracy for wave runup prediction in similar environments.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Marine
K. Qu, L. B. Zhang, Y. Yao, C. B. Jiang
Summary: This paper numerically studies the overtopping characteristics of coastal seawalls under the combined impact of onshore wind and solitary wave, and discusses the influences of some main factors. The results show that the presence of onshore wind greatly affects the runup and the amount of overtopping water of seawalls under the action of solitary wave.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Curt D. Storlazzi, Annouk E. Rey, Ap R. van Dongeren
Summary: Many populated, tropical coastlines with fringing coral reefs are at risk of wave-driven marine flooding, which is attributed to shore-normal channels. Understanding the influence of these channels on runup and flooding is crucial for predicting high runup events along the coastline.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Geography, Physical
Hector Lobeto, Melisa Menendez, Inigo J. Losada, Mark Hemer
Summary: By assessing wind-wave directional spectra, we comprehensively explain the projected changes in global wind-wave climatology in the 21st century. The results highlight a transition from positive to negative trends in Southern Ocean westerly swells and an increasing signal in southernmost swells propagating northward. Additionally, the study reveals a decrease in the main wave systems propagating in the North Atlantic Ocean.
GLOBAL AND PLANETARY CHANGE
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Omran Frihy, Soha Mohamed, Dina Abdalla, Mamdouh El-Hattab
Summary: An integrated survey incorporating fine-grid waterfront data, inland elevation, nearshore depth soundings, and wave data was conducted to assess natural hazards prevalent or anticipated at the Alexandria/Nile delta interface in Egypt. The study identified six low-lying vulnerable spots based on hazard values, with three spots in Alexandria and three in other areas along the coast. The analysis also showed contrasting elevations from low-lying areas to high coastal ridges that act as a natural barrier against sea flooding in Alexandria.
ENVIRONMENTAL EARTH SCIENCES
(2021)
Article
Oceanography
Chuan Li, H. Tuba Ozkan-Haller, Pedro Lomonaco, Timothy B. Maddux, Gabriel Garcia-Medina
Summary: This study investigates the variability of wave runup caused by wave sequencing through laboratory experiments. The results show that there is considerable variability in wave runup among wave groups, which is greatly influenced by the incident wave conditions.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Eva Le Merle, Daniele Hauser, Charles Peureux, Lotfi Aouf, Patricia Schippers, Christophe Dufour, Alice Dalphinet
Summary: The study analyzes the ocean wave spectra and various parameters provided by the CFOSAT satellite, finding differences with model results in high sea-state conditions in the Southern Ocean. These parameters may be used in the future to better describe the wave space-time evolution.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Cassandra S. Henderson, Julia W. Fiedler, Mark A. Merrifield, R. T. Guza, Adam P. Young
Summary: This study compares the time series of storm wave runup and overtopping observed with a scanning LiDAR with predictions of the phase-resolving numerical model SWASH 1D. Some errors were found in the model predictions.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Yun-Ta Wu, Kang-Wei Huang, Nobuhisa Kobayashi
Summary: This study conducted 122 experiments to investigate the breaking of solitary waves on smooth and rough slopes. By measuring free surface elevations, velocities, and maximum runup heights, it was found that the roughness of the slope significantly affects the runup of solitary waves.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Hanbin Gu, Xiaoan Zhu, Rui Shan, Jun Zang, Ling Qian, Pengzhi Lin
Summary: This paper briefly introduces a GNSS wave buoy that can monitor wave data by measuring vertical, north-south, and west-east displacements and velocities. The paper compares the results of the GNSS buoy with a Waverider deployed in close proximity, showing that the GNSS buoy provides similar wave information with slightly larger wave heights and shorter wave periods.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Danhong Wu, Haijiang Liu
Summary: This study investigates the effects of bed roughness and beach slope on non-breaking solitary wave runup height through laboratory experiments. The results show that bottom friction plays different roles for different beach slopes. A new empirical model is proposed to estimate runup height based on the maximum runup height, bed roughness, beach slope, and enhancement and reduction coefficients. The model is validated using existing data and shows good agreement with measurements.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
