4.4 Article

Development of a performance assessment tool for rock climbers

Journal

EUROPEAN JOURNAL OF SPORT SCIENCE
Volume 9, Issue 3, Pages 159-167

Publisher

TAYLOR & FRANCIS LTD
DOI: 10.1080/17461390902741132

Keywords

Performance; rock climbing; fitness assessment; skill; rock-over

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Rock climbing is a popular adventure sport for which there is a growing body of scientific knowledge. There is, however, a lack of sport-specific assessment tools to monitor performance. The aim of this study was to examine the potential of the rock-over climbing test (ROCT) as a measure of climbing performance. The ROCT was conducted on a climbaflex board and involved the climber making a rock-over move for which the height gained from lower to upper handhold was measured. Results indicated there was a significant relationship between scaled (to the height of the climber) ROCT scores and climbing ability (r=0.67, P0.0005). Regression modelling revealed that the ROCT explained 45% of the variance in scores between climbers. The ROCT differentiated between climber ability levels. Mean ROCT scores for novice, intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers were 59.5%, 71%, 82%, and 90% of participant height respectively. Results of analysis of variance revealed that these differences were significant (F 3,42=13.38, P0.0005). Limits of agreement and intra-class correlation indicated that the ROCT is a reliable performance measure. Our findings suggest that the ROCT is a useful measure of climbing performance.

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