Article
Environmental Sciences
Hector Lobeto, Melisa Menendez, Inigo J. Losada
Summary: The study compares present and future wind-wave conditions under a high-emission scenario using a novel approach and finds an increase in energy from Southern Ocean swells globally, which is especially relevant for the west coast of North America. On the other hand, a consistent decrease in the energy of large northern Atlantic swells near the equator is observed.
FRONTIERS IN MARINE SCIENCE
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Ocean
Tomoki Takami, Ulrik Dam Nielsen, Jorgen Juncher Jensen, Xi Chen
Summary: This paper presents a new approach for estimating encountered wave elevation sequences by using measured ship responses. The approach assumes that the wave field is represented by multi-directional irregular waves and makes use of Prolate Spheroidal Wave Functions (PSWF). By combining available measured responses, the phases and amplitudes of the multi-directional irregular waves are derived as the solution, enabling the estimation of wave profiles. Numerical investigations using artificially generated response measurements of a bulk carrier in different wave states demonstrate the accuracy of the proposed approach in estimating wave elevation sequences.
APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH
(2023)
Article
Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences
Antoine Villefer, Michel Benoit, Damien Violeau, Maria Teles
Summary: The wind wave peak frequency in a wind wave tunnel decreases when irregular long paddle-waves are added to the sea state. The TOMAWAC model is used to assess this frequency downshift at prototype scale in bimodal sea-state conditions. The model successfully reproduces laboratory experiments and coastal observations, particularly when using the latest developments in spectral wave models for whitecapping dissipation and nonlinear interactions.
Article
Oceanography
Behnam Shabani, Peter Ware, Tom E. Baldock
Summary: Laboratory measurements were conducted to study the interaction between high-frequency wind-waves and low-frequency paddle waves. The results indicate that the suppression of wind-waves is mainly due to enhanced dissipation of high-frequency waves near the crests of low-frequency waves, rather than reduced wind-input.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2022)
Article
Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences
Joao Albuquerque, Jose A. A. Antolinez, Richard M. Gorman, Fernando J. Mendez, Giovanni Coco
Summary: This study presents a high-resolution partitioned wave hindcast of New Zealand waters and validates the results against 9 buoy deployments representing the local wave climate. The analysis includes studying integrated and partitioned mean wave parameters, as well as exploring the correlation between wave height anomalies and atmospheric indices. A directional spatial analysis is also conducted to identify and quantify wave systems that are not detectable by in situ buoys or hindcast integrated parameters.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Dimitra I. Malliouri, Stelios Petrakis, Dimitris Vandarakis, Katerina Kikaki, Georgios-Angelos Hatiris, Fragkiska-Karmela Gad, Ioannis P. Panagiotopoulos, Vasilios Kapsimalis
Summary: This study investigates the wave-induced morphodynamic processes that lead to the formation of tombolo in Prasonisi, Rhodes Island, using satellite image analysis and numerical modeling. A new method is developed to extract successive wave data with similar characteristics, which is utilized together with satellite image analysis to derive the most representative wave scenarios that affect the formation of tombolo. The study finds that offshore wave conditions, the location and width of the surf zone, the maximum value of the wave breaking index, and the initial bottom bathymetry play significant roles in the evolution of tombolo and salient formation.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Haoyu Jiang, Zheng Yang
Summary: A well-performed look-up table model was established to study the climate and variability of wind-sea and swell globally. Swells dominate the World Ocean and have different responses compared to wind-seas for the same atmospheric oscillation. Significant positive/negative long-term trends of H-WS/H-SW were found in most regions.
REMOTE SENSING OF ENVIRONMENT
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Ocean
Konstantinos Christakos, Zhen Gao, Birgitte R. Furevik, Jan-Victor Bjorkqvist, Ole Johan Aarnes
Summary: A better understanding of wave homogeneity and coherence in coastal areas and fjords is crucial for the design and analysis of sea-crossing infrastructures. This study investigates wave characteristics in a fjord exposed to the open sea, finding significant differences in wave conditions due to the complex fjord geometry and changes in fetch and wind conditions. The study also highlights the importance of spatial coherence and homogeneity in analyzing ocean waves.
APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Mechanics
Tao Cao, Lian Shen
Summary: This study investigates the effects of fast-propagating water waves on overlying wind through simulation and theoretical analysis. The results indicate that the wave-induced airflow is mainly caused by the vertical movement of the wave surface, and the effects of turbulent stress on fast wave-induced airflow are negligible. The study also shows that the curvilinear model developed by Cao et al. provides accurate predictions for wind following fast waves.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Shih-Feng Su, Gangfeng Ma, Tai-Wen Hsu
Summary: The dynamics of low-frequency waves around an atoll reef island in the South China Sea, particularly during typhoon events, were investigated. The results showed an increase in alongshore low-frequency waves and a decrease in wave setup as incident wave angles decreased. Eastward low-frequency edge waves were dominant in all incident wave directions. Infragravity and very-low-frequency waves were found to be energetic around the eroded position of the shoreline.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Oceanography
Rui Li, Kejian Wu, Jingkai Li, Xianghui Dong, Jian Sun, Wenqing Zhang, Qingxiang Liu
Summary: This study analyzed the spatial characteristics of wind waves and swells in the Indian Ocean using the ERA-5 40-year reanalysis data set. The study found a strong correlation between zonal surface Stokes drift and wind waves, as well as a strong correlation between the Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) and surface Stokes drift. The depth-integrated wave transport was also found to have a significant impact on sea surface temperature.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Yuqi Wu, Chenqing Fan, Qiushuang Yan, Junmin Meng, Tianran Song, Jie Zhang
Summary: In this paper, the effects of wind wave spectra, non-Gaussianity of the sea surface, and swell on the distribution of the facet normalized radar cross section (NRCS) are analyzed. The results show that the Apel spectrum achieves a more consistent NRCS distribution at low incidence angles, while the composite spectra perform better at high incidence angles under VV polarization. The modified TSM successfully predicts the upwind-downwind asymmetry of backscattering and the distribution of scattering simulated by the modified TSM deviates significantly from the Gaussian distribution.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Julie Caroe Kristoffersen, Henrik Bredmose, Christos Thomas Georgakis, Fabio Pierella
Summary: A wind-forcing model is implemented into a fully nonlinear potential flow solver for water wave propagation. The model is capable of simulating a large number of waves and generating fully nonlinear wave kinematics. The effect of wind on waves is examined, and the model is calibrated and validated using experimental data. The results show that wind leads to increased wave steepness, a larger number of breaking waves, and an increase in local forces near the free surface.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Wenyi Meng, Shuiqing Li, Xuan Wang, Haoyu Jiang
Summary: In this study, three existing methods to separate wind-sea and swell from 1D wave spectra were evaluated statistically using data from 38 meteorological buoys. Among the three methods, the PM method shows the best agreement with the 2D separation method. A new 1D wind-sea-swell separation method based on deep learning is proposed, which outperforms all existing 1D separation methods. Both methods are robust and have no significant geographical dependence.
Article
Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences
Konstantinos Christakos, Jan-Victor Bjorkqvist, Laura Tuomi, Birgitte R. Furevik, Oyvind Breivik
Summary: This study investigates the performance of three different wave model source term packages in narrow fetch geometries, with the results indicating that the saturation-based approach of SWAN performs best in fjord systems. ST6 shows the highest sensitivity to fetch geometry and local wind changes, with all packages overestimating wave energy in narrow fetch geometry without swell.
Article
Ecology
Navid H. Jafari, Brian D. Harris, Jack A. Cadigan, Qin Chen
ECOLOGICAL ENGINEERING
(2019)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
An Li, Frank T-C Tsai, Kehui Xu, Jiaze Wang, Crawford M. White, Samuel J. Bentley, Qin J. Chen
GEO-MARINE LETTERS
(2019)
Article
Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences
Nan Wang, Qin Chen, Ling Zhu, Hao Sun
Summary: A novel hybrid approach was developed by integrating a physics-based SWAN model with machine learning algorithms to predict wind waves in a shallow estuary. The study found that the hybrid approach (BRT-SWAN) can be an efficient tool for modelers to identify sources of error and calibrate parameters in physics-based models. Furthermore, the study showed that the hybrid approach achieved a similar level of accuracy to the approach trained with field observations of wind waves.
Article
Oceanography
Reza Salatin, Qin Chen, A. Spicer Bak, Fengyan Shi, Steven R. Brandt
Summary: Coherent waves are pairs of waves with the same frequency and waveform, but with constant phase difference, leading to stationary wave interference in the wave field. The presence of coherent water waves can cause longshore variations in wave parameters, affecting radiation stress and other wave characteristics.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Nan Wang, Qin Chen, Ling Zhu, Hongqing Wang
Summary: This study investigates the wave characteristics around constructed oyster reefs (CORs) in upper Delaware Bay and develops soft computing-based models to predict long-term wave characteristics. The results show that CORs can significantly attenuate wave energy and height, which is significant for protecting coastal ecosystems.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Nan Wang, Qin Chen, Zhao Chen
Summary: This paper focuses on utilizing physics-informed neural networks (PINNs) to model nearshore wave transformation. The performance of the developed nearshore wave nets (NWnets) is examined by comparing the results with numerical solutions and experimental data. The study shows that the physics-guided deep learning method is a promising tool for studying nearshore processes.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Computer Science, Interdisciplinary Applications
Yongqing Liang, Xin Li, Brian Tsai, Qin Chen, Navid Jafari
Summary: We proposed a novel and automatic system for urban flood detection and quantification using image/video data as inputs. Our system effectively detects flooding and estimates inundation depths by combining water region segmentation and image/video segmentation technologies.
ENVIRONMENTAL MODELLING & SOFTWARE
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Qin Chen, Ling Zhu, Yan Ding, Navid Jafari, Hongqing Wang, Bradley D. Johnson
Summary: Coastal regions are facing increasing flood risks due to climate change. Coastal wetlands and vegetation are effective in mitigating coastal hazards by creating drag force and dampening storm surges and wind waves. A species-independent relationship between drag coefficient (C-D) and Reynolds number (Re) is proposed and validated, allowing for accurate wave attenuation prediction in salt marshes.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Qin Chen, Nan Wang, Zhao Chen
Summary: This paper introduces two methods that utilize physics-informed neural networks (PINNs) to determine nearshore water depths and wave height fields based on remote sensing of the ocean surface with limited or sparse measurements. The first method utilizes observed wave celerity fields and scarce measurements of wave height as training data, while the second method uses scarce wave height and water depth measurements as training points. The study demonstrates the potential of the inverse PINN model as a promising tool for estimating nearshore bathymetry and reconstructing wave fields.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Xuebin Chen, Jun-Hong Liang, Guoji Xu, Qin Chen
Summary: Submerged floating tunnels (SFTs) are seen as an alternative to sea bridges and underwater tunnels for wide and deep sea-crossings. A numerical model was developed to understand the interaction between elevation internal solitary waves (ISWs) and SFTs with different cross-sections in stratified fluids. The study focused on wave forces acting on fixed circular and elliptical SFTs under different conditions. The results showed that motion responses were relatively small for both circular and elliptical SFTs, indicating effective limitation by mooring lines, but potential fatigue failure should be considered when encountering internal soliton trains.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Ling Zhu, Qin Chen, Hongqing Wang, Nan Wang, Kelin Hu, William Capurso, Lukasz Niemoczynski, Gregg Snedden
Summary: This study utilizes physics-based models and the bagged regression tree (BRT) machine learning algorithm to simulate wave dynamics at a living shoreline composed of constructed oyster reefs (CORs) in upper Delaware Bay. The results show that CORs effectively stabilize shorelines and reduce erosion. The BRT algorithm improves the model accuracy and identifies key processes responsible for simulation errors, providing important information for the assessment and adaptive management of CORs-based living shoreline restoration projects under climate change.
Article
Engineering, Ocean
Nan Wang, Qin Chen, Hongqing Wang, William D. Capurso, Lukasz M. Niemoczynski, Ling Zhu, Gregg A. Snedden
Summary: This paper introduces a novel framework that utilizes scientific machine learning methods to accurately and rapidly predict the long-term hydrodynamic forcing impacting living shorelines based on short-term measurements of water levels and wind waves. The study focuses on predicting wave energy spectra in shallow water using winds and tides as input features and short-term measurements of wave spectra and water depths as labels. The developed LSTM models accurately predict wave heights, peak periods, and energy spectra around the living shorelines, capturing complex wave dynamics. The findings provide valuable insights into the efficacy of living shorelines in attenuating wave energy and demonstrate the utility of this approach in assessing the effectiveness of such structures.
APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Nan Wang, Qin Chen, Kelin Hu, Kehui Xu, Samuel J. Bentley, Jiaze Wang
Summary: This study used a Delft3D model to explore the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in Fourleague Bay, Louisiana. The findings show that by aligning river water pulses with atmospheric conditions, the growth of surrounding wetlands can be promoted and the distance over which they benefit from sediment diversions can be extended. Multiple sediment transport processes were observed under different weather conditions.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Ecology
Zhengchen Zang, Z. George Xue, Kehui Xu, Samuel J. Bentley, Qin Chen, Eurico J. D'Sa, Le Zhang, Yanda Ou
Article
Computer Science, Software Engineering
Yongqing Liang, Navid Jafari, Xing Luo, Qin Chen, Yanpeng Cao, Xin Li
COMPUTATIONAL VISUAL MEDIA
(2020)