Article
Environmental Sciences
Epaminondas Sidiropoulos, Konstantinos Vantas, Vlassios Hrissanthou, Thomas Papalaskaris
Summary: This paper examines the applicability of the Meyer-Peter and Muller (MPM) bed load transport formula in a specific location of Nestos River in Thrace, Greece, and compares it with an Enhanced MPM (EMPM) formula and two machine learning methods. The EMPM outperforms MPM and is competitive with the machine learning schemes, especially when calibrating with suitably smoothed measurement data.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Tristan B. Guest, Alex E. Hay
Summary: This study utilized aeroacoustic and optical remote sensing techniques to observe the morpho-sedimentary dynamics in the swash zone of a mixed sand-gravel beach. The data showed a correlation between increases in bed level and mean grain size, as well as finer-scale structures and the migration of coarse-grained material. Close-range remote sensing techniques provided valuable insights into the dynamics of cobble-sized and sand-sized particles in the swash zone.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Environmental
N. N. Phuong, E. Dhivert, B. Mourier, C. Grosbois, J. Gasperi
Summary: This study investigates the distribution of microplastic pollution in sediments of the Villerest reservoir. The results show that the section with fine-grained sediments has significantly higher levels of microplastics compared to the section with coarse-grained sediments. The study also finds that the polymer diversity is higher in fine-grained sediments. This research contributes to a better understanding of the role of hydrosedimentary processes in microplastic distribution and provides valuable insights for sediment management operations.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Chun-Cheng Chang, Yun-Ta Wu
Summary: In this study, the effect of different macro-roughness slopes on dam-break driven swash was evaluated using an open-source particle-based program, Dual-SPHysics. The simulations showed that different configurations of slope roughness have varying effects on the flow hydrodynamics in the swash zone, contributing to the understanding of long wave kinematics and hydrodynamics in nearshore zones.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Xiao Wu, Houjie Wang, Naishuang Bi, Jingping Xu, Jeffrey A. Nittrouer, Zuosheng Yang, Taian Lu, Peihua Li
Summary: This study highlights the impacts of the Water-Sediment Regulation Scheme (WSRS) on the lower Yellow River system, showing that artificial floods have significantly altered the volume and grain size patterns of transported sediment. The changes have led to high sediment loads over a shorter time frame and coarsening of the river channel, causing a shift from recession to progradation in the Yellow River delta and rapid burial of terrestrial organic carbon and pollutants.
WATER RESOURCES RESEARCH
(2021)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Zhong Tian, Hao Yang, Wei Wang, DeSheng Cao
Summary: This paper investigates the retrogressive erosion model following tailings dam break events, analyzing the degradation rate at different locations, and finding the relationship between the formation time of the breach and the peak tailings outflow rate.
FRONTIERS IN EARTH SCIENCE
(2021)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Xiaogang Zheng, Matteo Rubinato, Xingnian Liu, Yufei Ding, Ridong Chen, Ehsan Kazemi
Summary: This study develops a robust sediment transport model using Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) to simulate the vertical two-dimensional water-sediment two-phase flow and accurately replicate the movement of sediment particles. The model successfully addresses the challenge of replicating the water-sediment interface in grid-based models. It provides insights into the mixing and propagation of water and sediments following a dam break.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Elizabeth H. Dingle, Kyle M. Kusack, Jeremy G. Venditti
Summary: Gravel-sand transitions in river channels result in a significant reduction in median grain sizes, typically occurring a short distance downstream of mountain ranges or at a characteristic backwater distance upstream of a base-level control. While universal morphological characteristics associated with the transition are lacking, backwater effects and exhaustion of gravel supply can generate a distinct change in water surface slope.
EARTH-SCIENCE REVIEWS
(2021)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Soyoung Kim, Minyeob Jeong, Jongho Kim, Dae-Hong Kim
Summary: This study found that microtopographic roughness significantly affects soil erosion quantity, and the relationship between microtopographic roughness and soil erosion rate is determined by soil particle size. The progress of the microtopographic scale armoring process is closely related to microtopographic roughness and grain size. Therefore, to accurately predict the quantity and quality of soil erosion, the role of microtopography and the physical processes related to armoring must be considered.
WATER RESOURCES RESEARCH
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Wenkang Meng, Ching-hao Yu, Jia Li, Ruidong An
Summary: In this paper, the authors conducted three-dimensional numerical simulations to study the silted-up dam-break flow striking a rigid structure. They proposed a multiphase model combining kinetic particle theory and computational fluid dynamics. The results showed that the model can effectively capture the flow patterns, sediment movement, and deposition. This study is of great importance for understanding the characteristics and potential hazards of silted-up dam-break flow.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Joost W. M. Kranenborg, Geert H. P. Campmans, Niels G. Jacobsen, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Ad J. H. M. Reniers, Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher
Summary: In this study, a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model implemented in OpenFOAM was presented for simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The model performance was evaluated by comparing with field-scale measurements of solitary waves, showing reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and sediment transport volumes. The model demonstrated the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Ocean
B. Deng, W. Zhang, H. S. Tang, C. B. Jiang, X. J. Liu
Summary: This study experimentally investigates the hydrodynamics and sediment transport caused by dam-break waves in the swash zones of three sandy beaches. The results show that the uniformity of sand particle sizes plays a crucial role in the hydraulic behavior, bedform evolution, bedload transport, and sand particle migration.
APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Changliang Tong, Maogang Qin, Xuemu Wang, Xiangbai Wu
Summary: The marine sediment deposits near the Qiongzhou Strait have the potential to be used as sources for beach nourishment and infrastructure industry aggregates. By estimating the bedload transport during the spring tide, we gained a better understanding of sediment movement characteristics under dynamic conditions, which is beneficial for assessing and mining marine sand resources. Through field work and simulation using a hydrological science integrated system model, we found that the transport rate in the study area during the spring tide cycle varied spatially and temporally. Our research has significant implications for regional engineering and marine resources management.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Mauricio Andrades Paixao, Masato Kobiyama, Cristiano Poleto, Luca Mao, Itzayana Gonzalez Avila, Hiroshi Takebayashi, Masaharu Fujita
Summary: This study aims to understand the relationship between morphology, topography, and local sediments in a canyon river in Southern Brazil. Topobathymetric data were obtained during a field survey, and the results suggest that sediment supply is an essential characteristic of the canyon's influence on river morphology. The study also found that the influence of the canyon on river characteristics weaken from upstream to downstream.
JOURNAL OF SOILS AND SEDIMENTS
(2023)
Review
Engineering, Civil
Yunping Yang, Jinhai Zheng, Lingling Zhu, Huaqing Zhang, Jianjun Wang
Summary: This study examines the impacts of the Three Gorges Reservoir (TGR) impoundment on sediment sorting and downstream transport characteristics. The results show that the reservoir prevents a significant amount of upstream sediments from reaching the downstream area of the dam, leading to a decrease in the discharge of fine and coarse particles. The study highlights the importance of understanding the effects of large dams on sediment transport in river systems.
JOURNAL OF HYDROLOGY
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Tom E. Baldock, Behnam Shabani, David P. Callaghan, Zhifang Hu, Peter J. Mumby
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2020)
Article
Marine & Freshwater Biology
Alice J. Twomey, Megan I. Saunders, David P. Callaghan, Tjeerd J. Bouma, Qiuying Han, Katherine R. O'Brien
Summary: Coastal areas are facing increasing risks of flooding and erosion due to coastal development and climate change. Seagrass meadows, including Enhalus acoroides, may not provide equivalent sediment stabilisation as dense root-mat-forming species, likely due to the reduced binding structure of the roots.
ESTUARINE COASTAL AND SHELF SCIENCE
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Florent Birrien, Tom Baldock
Summary: An equilibrium beach profile model was developed and coupled with a parametric hydrodynamic model to provide feedback between morphology and hydrodynamics. The model was compared to laboratory profiles and showed accurate predictions for erosive and accretive conditions, with potential for improvement in linking dissipation and local transport.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
T. E. Baldock, U. Gravois, D. P. Callaghan, G. Davies, S. Nichol
Summary: A new methodology is proposed to estimate storm demand and dune recession by clustered and non-clustered events, with a numerical morphodynamic model tested at a coastal cell in Old Bar, Australia. The analysis shows that for a 50-year return period, the expected storm demand for clustered and non-clustered events is approximately 25% greater than that for individual events. However, further analysis reveals that the storm demand for non-clustered events is similar to that of clustered events for a 50-year return period, despite the larger population of the latter.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Muhammad S. I. Ibrahim, Tom E. Baldock
Summary: This study compares experimental and numerical models of wave overtopping on fixed impermeable smooth beaches, showing varied performances of different models under different beach edge morphologies.
JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Michael Thompson, Ivan Zelich, Evan Watterson, Tom E. Baldock
Summary: The new wave peel tracking (WPT) method assesses surf amenity by measuring and quantifying potential surfing ride rate, length, duration, speed, and direction on a wave-by-wave basis. It provides a robust, automated method for quantifying surf amenity to provide baseline data for surf break conservation and has the potential to verify numerical modeling of surf breaks and assess the impact of coastal development on surf breaks.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Yongjing Mao, Daniel L. Harris, David P. Callaghan, Stuart Phinn
Summary: This study compared and evaluated large-scale shoreline retreat rate (SRR) in Australia using Discrete and Hybrid Bayesian networks. It was found that Hybrid BNs outperformed in predicting continuous variables and provided a more realistic assessment of the range of SRR, while both BNs gave consistent qualitative findings for Australia's SRR. Sediment sink/source was identified as the most informative parameter in indicating shoreline retreat.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2021)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Tom E. Baldock, Paul M. Bayle, Ollie Foss, Luis P. Almeida, Stefan Schimmels
Summary: The development of coastal regions and rising sea levels have increased the risk of coastal flooding. Traditional methods for measuring wave overtopping are not suitable for dynamically stable coastal protection structures. This study explores the potential use of 2D laser scanners to remotely sense the flow volumes overtopping a porous dynamic revetment and proposes two analysis methods to estimate the overtopping volumes.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Orrin Lancaster, Remo Cossu, Craig Heatherington, Scott Hunter, Tom E. Baldock
Summary: This study presents the first published measurements of scour and morphological change around an Oscillating Water Column (OWC) Wave Energy Converter (WEC) device at a real-world site. The study aims to provide insights for future designs to reduce costs of the technology. A 200-kW prototype OWC WEC was deployed in King Island, Australia and monitored using dive footage, multi-beam surveys, and bedrock surveys. Settlement of the device was observed and attributed to scour undermining the gravity structure's foundations. The study explores the processes causing scour and suggests design modifications to mitigate the risk of scour and settlement.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
A. Wuppukondur, T. E. Baldock
Summary: This study evaluates the accuracy of numerical models used in tsunami warning centers for predicting tsunami wave characteristics in converging channels. The results show that widely used nonlinear shallow water equation models fail to accurately capture wave profiles and heights, while the Boussinesq model produces consistent results for non-breaking waves. Furthermore, a three-dimensional nonhydrostatic model predicts wave heights and overtopping volumes with deviations for solitary waves and bores. In converging channels, the reflection of incident waves is minimal, but both numerical models and the classical analytical long-wave model fail to accurately predict the minimal reflection of non-breaking solitary waves in the absence of overtopping.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Behnam Shabani, Peter Ware, Tom E. Baldock
Summary: Laboratory measurements were conducted to study the interaction between high-frequency wind-waves and low-frequency paddle waves. The results indicate that the suppression of wind-waves is mainly due to enhanced dissipation of high-frequency waves near the crests of low-frequency waves, rather than reduced wind-input.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Ocean
Orrin Lancaster, Remo Cossu, Ananth Wuppukondur, Alejandro Astorga Moar, Scott Hunter, Tom E. Baldock
Summary: This study conducted experimental measurements of wave scour on a laboratory model of the King Island OWC Wave Energy Converter, comparing the data with field measurements for the first time. The results show that scour forms at the back corners of the device and undermines the structure, while scour at the front is sensitive to the configuration of the front chamber door.
APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
A. Astorga-Moar, T. E. Baldock
Summary: The experimental results indicate that accurate predictions for runup on fringing reef-fronted beaches require appropriate wave and water level conditions, and the modified formulations can better describe the runup height.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Orrin Lancaster, Remo Cossu, Mylo Wilson, Tom E. Baldock
Summary: This study is the first comprehensive parametric study of wave-induced scour around a large bluff body structure, and it also introduces experimental data to validate a CFD model for wave-induced scour. The study demonstrates the accuracy of the numerical model in replicating scour around large bluff body structures and proposes new equations for predicting non-dimensional equilibrium scour depths.
Article
Engineering, Marine
J. J. Wiegerink, T. E. Baldock, D. P. Callaghan, C. M. Wang
Summary: The development of slosh suppression blocks is a crucial advancement in reducing sloshing in floating closed containment fish tanks, allowing them to operate in a wider range of wave conditions. This experimental study examines the movement and sloshing response of a scaled model of a floating rigid containment tank under regular wave action. The study investigates the effectiveness of slosh suppression blocks of different dimensions in mitigating sloshing while considering the well-being of the internal fluid for fish. The results show that slosh suppression blocks can reduce overall sloshing amplitudes and prevent the build-up of large sloshing amplitudes by sacrificing slightly higher sloshing amplitudes at lower excitation periods. The fluid overtopping onto the slosh suppression block minimizes disturbances to the main fluid volume, creating a calm living environment for the fish below. Effective slosh mitigation enables the deployment of these closed containment systems in high-energy fish farming sites as the aquaculture industry expands into offshore locations.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Kuifeng Zhao, Yufei Wang, Philip L. -F. Liu
Summary: This note provides guidelines for selecting appropriate analytical periodic water wave solutions based on two physical parameters. The guidelines are summarized in a graphic format and the dividing lines between applicable wave theories are determined by the nonlinearity and frequency dispersion ratios.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Jana Haddad, Johanna H. Rosman, Richard A. Luettich, Christine M. Voss
Summary: Understanding wave transformation in marsh vegetation canopies is crucial for assessing nature-based shoreline strategies. This study investigates the challenges of accurately modeling wave dissipation in coastal marshes and proposes a new dimensionless parameter to represent the canopy drag coefficient (C-D). The study finds that uncertainties in vegetation measurements lead to variations in C-D expressions, and suggests using the Cauchy number (Ca) as the more appropriate parameter for larger waves.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Arnold van Rooijen, Ad Reniers, Marion Tissier, Floris de Wit, Marcel Zijlema
Summary: This paper extends the non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to account for the influence of a depth-uniform ambient current on wave dynamics. The model's ability is verified by comparing predictions to results from linear theory, laboratory experiments, and a spectral wave model. The extended model accurately captures current-induced changes in the wave field and simulations of wave dynamics in the presence of strong opposing currents.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Zhihao Shen, Duruo Huang, Gang Wang, Feng Jin
Summary: In this study, a resolved CFD-DEM coupling procedure was proposed to study the interaction of waves and irregularly shaped armour units. The model was validated by comparing the numerical results with a flume wave erosion test. The influence of armour shape on overtopping discharge, pressure distribution, and vortex structure was also studied.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Xinyu Hou, Zhonghua Weng, Xin Chen, Gengfa Chen
Summary: A single-phase model is proposed to predict sediment motion on vortex rippled bed under wave action. The model takes into account the acceleration effect of bottom sediment, the development of asymmetric boundary layer, and the sediment phase-lag, and successfully predicts the velocity, concentration, and development of sediment cloud on vortex ripples.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Mark Loveland, Eirik Valseth, Jessica Meixner, Clint Dawson
Summary: This article discusses the importance of using numerical models to predict the wind wave spectrum of the ocean. The article explores various finite element discretizations of the Wave Action Balance Equation and examines their convergence properties through simplified 2-D test cases. It also introduces a new spectral wind wave model called WAVEx and its implementation method.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Yuan Li, Chi Zhang, Shaohua Zhao, Hongshuai Qi, Feng Cai, Jinhai Zheng
Summary: Sandy-muddy transitional beaches (SMT-Beaches) are a type of coastal formation consisting of upper sandy beach and lower mudflat. This study examined the morphological characteristics of SMT-Beaches and the mechanisms of the formation of sandmud transition (SMT) boundary. Field surveys were conducted on SMT-Beaches in South China Coasts and a new equilibrium profile function for SMT-Beaches was developed. The function demonstrated good performance and improved accuracy compared to traditional methods. It was also found that sediment characteristics differ on both sides of the SMT boundary, with clay-to-silt grains increasing seaward.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
He Ma, Ludi Xu, Samuel Ukpong Okon, Peng Hu, Wei Li, Huabin Shi, Zhiguo He
Summary: This study presents a coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes during storm surges. The model accurately simulates the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Myung Jin Koh, Hyoungsu Park, Albert S. Kim
Summary: A framework combining tsunami flow model and debris transport model is developed to evaluate the kinematics of multiple debris and sequential hazards in a coastal community. The impact of tsunami-driven debris at Honolulu Harbor, Hawaii is assessed by simulating the motion of 2500 shipping containers under a hypothetical tsunami event. New types of intensity measures for tsunami-driven debris hazards are introduced, and hazard maps showing the potential impact loadings from debris dispersion are presented.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)