4.7 Article

On the run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves - An experimental study

Journal

COASTAL ENGINEERING
Volume 80, Issue -, Pages 1-14

Publisher

ELSEVIER SCIENCE BV
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.05.001

Keywords

Run-up; Solitary wave; Undular bore; Surf parameter; Back-wash; Breaking criterion

Funding

  1. NSF
  2. Royal Academy of Engineering through the Newton International Fellowship
  3. Directorate For Geosciences
  4. Division Of Ocean Sciences [0925711] Funding Source: National Science Foundation
  5. Div Of Civil, Mechanical, & Manufact Inn
  6. Directorate For Engineering [1041541] Funding Source: National Science Foundation

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The run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves on a slope were studied experimentally. Experiments were conducted in three different wave flumes with four different slopes. For single solitary wave, new experimental data were acquired and, based on the theoretical breaking criterion, a new surf parameter specifically for breaking solitary waves was proposed. An equation to estimate maximum fractional run-up height on a given slope was also proposed. For double solitary waves, new experiments were performed by using two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights; these waves were separated by various durations. The run-up heights of the second wave were found to vary with respect to the separation time. Particle image velocimetry measurements revealed that the intensity of the back-wash flow generated by the first wave strongly affected the run-up height of the second wave. Showing trends similar to that of the second wave run-up heights, both the back-wash breaking process of the first wave and the reflected waves were strongly affected by the wave-wave interaction. Empirical run-up formula for the second solitary wave was also introduced. (C) 2013 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

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