Article
Engineering, Marine
Maarten van Ormondt, Dano Roelvink, Ap van Dongeren
Summary: A new set of empirical formulations has been derived to predict wave run-up at naturally sloping sandy beaches, based on fitting results of XBeach-NH+ model simulations. The formulations include reduction coefficients for incident wave angle and directional spreading effects, and show better predictive skills than widely used Stockdon relationships. The study also highlights the importance of surf zone slope in predicting wave run-up and the relationship between infragravity run-up and beach slope.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Geochemistry & Geophysics
E. H. Madden, M. Bader, J. Behrens, Y. van Dinther, A-A Gabriel, L. Rannabauer, T. Ulrich, C. Uphoff, S. Vater, I van Zelst
Summary: Researchers have used linked dynamic earthquake and tsunami computational models to simulate tsunami genesis, propagation, and coastal inundation, finding that the higher tsunami-generating efficiency of blind zone earthquakes can lead to smaller but more efficient tsunamis. They have also demonstrated the application of complex earthquake models in tsunami studies.
GEOPHYSICAL JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Ho-Jun Yoo, Hyoseob Kim, Changhwan Jang, Ki-Hyun Kim, Tae-Soon Kang
Summary: The article describes the characteristics of edge waves on a uniform-sloped seabed and their mass transport patterns on the beach, indicating that edge waves have maximum run-up height and run-up distance limits.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Review
Engineering, Marine
Piera Fischione, Davide Pasquali, Daniele Celli, Carmine Di Nucci, Marcello Di Risio
Summary: Beach drainage system is a soft engineering method aimed at countering shoreline retreat. By lowering the groundwater table, the system thickens the layer of dry sand and reduces the mobilization of sediment grains. However, the effectiveness of this system remains controversial.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Ioannis Kazakis, Theophanis V. Karambas
Summary: This study numerically investigates the 3D hydrodynamic processes in coastal zones, such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM. The numerical scheme incorporates the initial conditions of wave propagation and absorption using the waves2Foam wave library. Turbulence closure is handled with a buoyancy modified k-omega SST model. A transport-rate formula for sediment transport is implemented to predict the sediment transport rate due to waves and currents. The results are compared with experimental data and semi-empirical expressions for wave height, longshore current, turbulence kinetic energy, and sediment transport.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Yihao Zheng, Mingzhe Yang, Haijiang Liu
Summary: The propagation of wave-induced water table fluctuation in a coastal aquifer can either exhibit a zero-phase lag or a significant phase lag, depending on the location of the uprush limit and the properties of the beach sand. The phase-lead phenomenon is observed near the uprush limit, and it is attributed to the dynamics of the seepage face. The capillary fringe behaviors provide physical mechanisms for the zero-phase lag phenomenon.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Tristan B. Guest, Alex E. Hay
Summary: This study utilized aeroacoustic and optical remote sensing techniques to observe the morpho-sedimentary dynamics in the swash zone of a mixed sand-gravel beach. The data showed a correlation between increases in bed level and mean grain size, as well as finer-scale structures and the migration of coarse-grained material. Close-range remote sensing techniques provided valuable insights into the dynamics of cobble-sized and sand-sized particles in the swash zone.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Joost W. M. Kranenborg, Geert H. P. Campmans, Niels G. Jacobsen, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Ad J. H. M. Reniers, Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher
Summary: In this study, a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model implemented in OpenFOAM was presented for simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The model performance was evaluated by comparing with field-scale measurements of solitary waves, showing reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and sediment transport volumes. The model demonstrated the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Yihao Zheng, Mingzhe Yang, Haijiang Liu
Summary: This study investigates the groundwater hydrodynamic features of coastal beaches under the effect of capillary fringe using laboratory wave flume experiments. It confirms the existence of three mechanisms, the flux mechanism, the gradient mechanism, and the newly-proposed meniscus mechanism, which contribute to the non-hysteresis of the pressure head variation.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Bin Deng, Wen Zhang, Yu Yao, Changbo Jiang
Summary: This study investigates the hydrodynamics of bore-driven swash flows over beaches with varying slopes through laboratory experiments. The impacts of beach slope on swash hydrodynamics and the formation and evolution of vortex structures are analyzed.
FRONTIERS IN MARINE SCIENCE
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Mustafa Turkyilmazoglu
Summary: The paper provides an exact solution for wave run-up events on beaches with varying sloping bottom profiles due to impulsively started solitary waves. By considering the concavity feature of the coast bottom, a rigorous asymptotic formula is derived for the solitary wave maximum wave height. The research unifies previously studied beaches and their run-up predictions, showing the impact of sloping profiles on the wave run-up process.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Caio Eadi Stringari, Hannah E. Power
Summary: Understanding swash zone dynamics is crucial for coastal management, as swash motions play a key role in driving changes in beach morphology through sediment exchanges. This study develops novel descriptors for swash motions by combining field data and statistical modeling, showing that the probability distribution functions of certain parameters are inherently multimodal and best modeled using Gaussian mixtures. Results indicate that offshore and surf zone dynamics drive swash zone dynamics, suggesting unsaturated swash conditions. The methods and results developed in this study could potentially aid in the development of improved swash zone models for coastal managers in the future.
Article
Ecology
Anna Clara Arboitte de Assumpcao, Felipe Caron, Fernando Erthal, Eduardo Guimaraes Barboza, Raphael Mathias Pinotti, Matias do Nascimento Ritter
Summary: The study examines the changes in shell sizes in ancient shell mounds and the collection methods of ancient fisher-gardeners. The findings suggest that the average body size of Amarilladesma mactroides in ancient shell mounds is larger than the current shells, especially in the middle level of the swash zone. This indicates that fisher-gardeners may have collected large organisms at different levels depending on the season.
FRONTIERS IN ECOLOGY AND EVOLUTION
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Jose Carlos Pintado-Patino, Jack A. Puleo, Douglas Krafft, Alec Torres-Freyermuth
Summary: The experimental study provides detailed measurements of swash zone hydrodynamics, sediment transport flux, and bed changes over a movable sand bed with a steep slope. It shows that sheet flow sediment dominates over suspended load during sediment transport, and the relative contribution of sheet flow decreases over time and space. The results also indicate close agreement between different approaches for estimating sediment transport in the swash zone.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Mariana C. A. Clare, Tim W. B. Leijnse, Robert T. McCall, Ferdinand L. M. Diermanse, Colin J. Cotter, Matthew D. Piggott
Summary: When choosing a hydrodynamic model, there is a trade-off between accuracy and computational cost. However, a multifidelity approach can be used to take advantage of both high-fidelity and low-fidelity models. This study applies the multilevel multifidelity Monte Carlo method (MLMF) to quantify uncertainty in coastal environments, demonstrating its ability to significantly reduce computational cost while maintaining accuracy.
NATURAL HAZARDS AND EARTH SYSTEM SCIENCES
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Gioele Ruffini, Riccardo Briganti, Jose M. Alsina, Maurizio Brocchini, Nicholas Dodd, Robert McCall
JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING
(2020)
Article
Mechanics
M. Antuono, S. Marrone, A. Di Mascio, A. Colagrossi
Summary: This study modifies the previous method of introducing LES in the SPH framework by adding velocity deviation and the tensile instability control technique to achieve a quasi-Lagrangian LES-SPH model, which is successfully tested in simulating two-dimensional and three-dimensional turbulent problems.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Gianluca Zitti, Nico Novelli, Maurizio Brocchini
Summary: This study introduces a numerical model to investigate the dynamics of fish farm cages in currents and waves, taking into account the elasticity of the net and utilizing the real size of the net for simulations to accurately reproduce the dynamics of the cage.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Lorenzo Melito, Francesco Lalli, Matteo Postacchini, Maurizio Brocchini
Summary: This study presents a novel operational approach for assessing tsunami-induced inundation in the Mediterranean Sea. By using a chain of intermediate and small-scale simulations, the researchers identified a new parameter called alpha, which serves as a proxy for determining coastal susceptibility to tsunami impact. Small-scale modeling demonstrated good agreement with intermediate-scale modeling, indicating the value of alpha in scaling offshore wave input and reducing computational effort for regional-scale flood evaluation.
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2022)
Article
Mechanics
Maurizio Brocchini, Francesco Marini, Matteo Postacchini, Gianluca Zitti, Massimo Falchi, Zhihua Xie
Summary: This study describes the vortex-vortex interactions observed in laboratory experiments. A point-vortex model has been implemented to investigate the dynamics of vortices and their interactions with waves. The results indicate that self-advection and mutual interaction are the governing mechanisms for the motion of vortices.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Lorenzo Melito, Luca Parlagreco, Saverio Devoti, Maurizio Brocchini
Summary: This study uses numerical simulations to investigate the propagation, evolution, dissipation, and reflection patterns of infragravity waves at Sabaudia beach. It reveals the role of tides in frequency-dependent dynamics of infragravity waves and altering the dissipative state of mild sloping beaches, even in microtidal environments.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Ali Pourzangbar, Maurizio Brocchini
Summary: This study investigates the migration of natural sand bars in the nearshore using a new process-based circulation model. The model is validated against theoretical, experimental, and numerical results, and the contributions of the bottom boundary layer and suspended sediment transport are clarified. The study also predicts the evolution of a sand bar system in Senigallia, and the results show that the model can reproduce the migration patterns and shoreline retreat accurately, with the inclusion of the bottom boundary layer improving the prediction of the bar crest migration.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Mechanics
Matteo Antuono
Summary: This article introduces a semi-analytical iterative scheme for the propagation of steady periodic waves over a planar seabed under different water depth conditions. The scheme is capable of accurately describing highly nonlinear waves in various motion regimes and provides a reliable approximation of the dynamics of maximum-amplitude waves. The study also includes a detailed analysis of the wave parameters and the definition of a global scaling for water waves applicable in all motion regimes.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2022)
Article
Mechanics
Matteo Antuono, Alessia Lucarelli, Andrea Bardazzi, Maurizio Brocchini
Summary: This study proposes an efficient model for the three-dimensional evolution of breaking water waves in the nearshore region. The model incorporates the dynamics of vorticity and energy dissipation induced by wave breaking, and is capable of representing the main features of nearshore wave dynamics in a simple and reliable manner.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2022)
Article
Mechanics
Stefano De Finis, Claudio Lugni, Giorgio Bellotti, Maurizio Brocchini
Summary: This paper investigates the phenomenon of filling flow using an experimental approach and evaluates its properties. The results are compared with analytical formulations and a empirical formula for predicting the pressure induced by the filling flow is proposed.
Article
Mechanics
Maurizio Brocchini, Francesco Marini, Massimo Falchi, Matteo Postacchini, Gianluca Zitti
Summary: One single regular wave over a submerged abrupt discontinuity can generate a pair of counter-rotating vortices. The present work illustrates the main findings of the optical analysis of the flow field induced by three different wave conditions, highlighting the role of wave nonlinearity on the interaction between the vortices.
Article
Engineering, Multidisciplinary
J. Michel, M. Antuono, G. Oger, S. Marrone
Summary: The Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method is improved by using a quasi-Lagrangian SPH scheme and a Particle Shifting Technique (PST) to solve the problem of irregular particle distributions. Two different quasi-Lagrangian Riemann-based SPH schemes are obtained, one with constant mass and the other derived from an ALE formalism. The energy balance of these schemes is examined and validated, specifically focusing on the energy contribution of the Riemann solver and PST.
COMPUTER METHODS IN APPLIED MECHANICS AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Computer Science, Interdisciplinary Applications
P. N. Sun, C. Pilloton, M. Antuono, A. Colagrossi
Summary: The proposed work introduces a new viscous term to reduce acoustic pressure waves in weakly-compressible SPH models. Compared to existing regularizing terms in SPH literature, this term enables noise-free simulations while maintaining the advantages of explicit schemes. Numerical results demonstrate its effectiveness in flow simulations with different weakly-compressible SPH models.
JOURNAL OF COMPUTATIONAL PHYSICS
(2023)
Article
Mechanics
J. Michel, A. Colagrossi, M. Antuono, S. Marrone
Summary: In this paper, a novel high-order weakly compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics scheme is proposed, which is based on an accurate approximation of the pressure gradient and the use of numerical Riemann fluxes. The scheme can fulfill the dynamic free-surface boundary condition and prevent the onset of the tensile instability in inner regions of the fluid domain by switching between non-conservative and conservative formulations of the pressure gradient. The numerical diffusion is obtained using Riemann solvers and allows for a high-order convergence rate of the diffusive terms with low numerical dissipation.
Article
Physics, Fluids & Plasmas
A. Souto-Iglesias, J. Bonet Avalos, M. Antuono, A. Colagrossi
Summary: In this study, the SPH method is used to model micropolar fluids and focus on their dissipation mechanisms. A dissipation function is defined at the particle level, dependent on relative velocity and an additional spin degree of freedom. The model is enriched with spin derivatives for maximal generality as an isotropic model. Numerical verification and validation tests show that SPH accurately models this type of dynamics.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Kuifeng Zhao, Yufei Wang, Philip L. -F. Liu
Summary: This note provides guidelines for selecting appropriate analytical periodic water wave solutions based on two physical parameters. The guidelines are summarized in a graphic format and the dividing lines between applicable wave theories are determined by the nonlinearity and frequency dispersion ratios.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Jana Haddad, Johanna H. Rosman, Richard A. Luettich, Christine M. Voss
Summary: Understanding wave transformation in marsh vegetation canopies is crucial for assessing nature-based shoreline strategies. This study investigates the challenges of accurately modeling wave dissipation in coastal marshes and proposes a new dimensionless parameter to represent the canopy drag coefficient (C-D). The study finds that uncertainties in vegetation measurements lead to variations in C-D expressions, and suggests using the Cauchy number (Ca) as the more appropriate parameter for larger waves.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Arnold van Rooijen, Ad Reniers, Marion Tissier, Floris de Wit, Marcel Zijlema
Summary: This paper extends the non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to account for the influence of a depth-uniform ambient current on wave dynamics. The model's ability is verified by comparing predictions to results from linear theory, laboratory experiments, and a spectral wave model. The extended model accurately captures current-induced changes in the wave field and simulations of wave dynamics in the presence of strong opposing currents.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Zhihao Shen, Duruo Huang, Gang Wang, Feng Jin
Summary: In this study, a resolved CFD-DEM coupling procedure was proposed to study the interaction of waves and irregularly shaped armour units. The model was validated by comparing the numerical results with a flume wave erosion test. The influence of armour shape on overtopping discharge, pressure distribution, and vortex structure was also studied.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Xinyu Hou, Zhonghua Weng, Xin Chen, Gengfa Chen
Summary: A single-phase model is proposed to predict sediment motion on vortex rippled bed under wave action. The model takes into account the acceleration effect of bottom sediment, the development of asymmetric boundary layer, and the sediment phase-lag, and successfully predicts the velocity, concentration, and development of sediment cloud on vortex ripples.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Mark Loveland, Eirik Valseth, Jessica Meixner, Clint Dawson
Summary: This article discusses the importance of using numerical models to predict the wind wave spectrum of the ocean. The article explores various finite element discretizations of the Wave Action Balance Equation and examines their convergence properties through simplified 2-D test cases. It also introduces a new spectral wind wave model called WAVEx and its implementation method.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Yuan Li, Chi Zhang, Shaohua Zhao, Hongshuai Qi, Feng Cai, Jinhai Zheng
Summary: Sandy-muddy transitional beaches (SMT-Beaches) are a type of coastal formation consisting of upper sandy beach and lower mudflat. This study examined the morphological characteristics of SMT-Beaches and the mechanisms of the formation of sandmud transition (SMT) boundary. Field surveys were conducted on SMT-Beaches in South China Coasts and a new equilibrium profile function for SMT-Beaches was developed. The function demonstrated good performance and improved accuracy compared to traditional methods. It was also found that sediment characteristics differ on both sides of the SMT boundary, with clay-to-silt grains increasing seaward.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
He Ma, Ludi Xu, Samuel Ukpong Okon, Peng Hu, Wei Li, Huabin Shi, Zhiguo He
Summary: This study presents a coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes during storm surges. The model accurately simulates the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Myung Jin Koh, Hyoungsu Park, Albert S. Kim
Summary: A framework combining tsunami flow model and debris transport model is developed to evaluate the kinematics of multiple debris and sequential hazards in a coastal community. The impact of tsunami-driven debris at Honolulu Harbor, Hawaii is assessed by simulating the motion of 2500 shipping containers under a hypothetical tsunami event. New types of intensity measures for tsunami-driven debris hazards are introduced, and hazard maps showing the potential impact loadings from debris dispersion are presented.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
