4.2 Article

Analysis of sensitive skin barrier function: basic indicators and sebum composition

Journal

INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
Volume 40, Issue 2, Pages 117-126

Publisher

WILEY
DOI: 10.1111/ics.12442

Keywords

lipid composition; physiological indicators; sensitive skin; skin barrier

Funding

  1. National Natural Science Foundation of China [31501415]
  2. Support Project of High-level Teachers in Beijing Municipal Universities [CITTCD201804027]
  3. Science and Technology Planning Project of Beijing [Z171100001517006]
  4. Scientific Research Project of Beijing Educational Committee [SQKM201610011008]
  5. China Cosmetic Collaborative and Innovation Center, BTBU [19008001060]

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ObjectivesSensitive skin (SS) is a condition characterised by high reactivity, low tolerance, and susceptibility to allergies of the skin. Owing to changes in the environment and marketing strategies, as well as the increasing public awareness about skin care, attention to skin condition is gradually increasing. The aim of this study is to explore the differences in the skin barrier of SS and normal skin (NS). MethodsA questionnaire survey was conducted and basic indicators of the skin barrier were analysed. It was found that sebum secretion in the SS group was lower than that in the NS group, suggesting that the development of SS might be associated with sebum secretion and its specific components. Next, an ultra performance liquid chromatography-quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometer was used to identify facial sebum components in female volunteers. ResultsThe results showed that the sebum of female volunteers with SS had high levels of ceramides, glycerophosphoethanolamines, and diacylglycerols, and low levels of glucosylceramides, glycerophosphoserines, glycerophosphocholines, and triacylglycerols. ConclusionAnalysis of lipid functions suggested that the main reason for SS development in women might be a barrier dysfunction caused by excessive apoptosis and lack of water. Therefore, anti-allergy additives in cosmetic products that could inhibit apoptosis of keratinocytes and methods to maintain the stability of water molecules in the skin should be further studied.

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