Article
Engineering, Civil
B. C. Ludka, A. P. Young, R. T. Guza, W. C. O'Reilly, M. A. Merrifield
Summary: A study found that a subaerial beach nourishment project at Imperial Beach, California led to the spread of sand alongshore and erosion of sand in front of flood-prone homes while accumulation of sand occurred near the river mouth. These erosion/accretion patterns were observed both before and after the nourishment. The migration of the river mouth may be due to the presence of nourishment sand and the intensification of local drift convergence caused by El Nino. The study also proposed a computationally efficient drift gradient model that can predict the overall patterns of alongshore nourishment evolution and provide a framework for sand management.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Marine & Freshwater Biology
Laura Lopez-Olmedilla, Luis Pedro Almeida, Salette Amaral de Figueiredo, Angela Fontan-Bouzas, Paulo A. Silva, Javier Alcantara-Carrio
Summary: This study aims to model the shoreline evolution for 2050 and 2100 in a sandy coastal stretch in northwest Portugal, considering different scenarios of sea-level rise and the influence of sediment budget on shoreline displacement.
ESTUARINE COASTAL AND SHELF SCIENCE
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Irene Cinelli, Giorgio Anfuso, Enrico Bartoletti, Lorenzo Rossi, Enzo Pranzini
Summary: The paper discusses the history and evolution of projects carried out at Cavo beach in Elba Island, Italy from 1999 to 2008. Initially facing severe erosion, the beach underwent a series of nourishment projects involving removal and replacement of sediments, resulting in a wider and improved beach profile suitable for tourism development. Monitoring data demonstrated the great stability of the newly created beach and its increased appeal to visitors.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Chemistry, Multidisciplinary
Charlie S. Bristow, Lucy Buck, Maria Inggrid
Summary: Dungeness is a large shingle feature on the south coast of England, containing hundreds of beach ridges and two nuclear power stations built in the 1960s. Southwest waves dominate the area, leading to erosion on the southwest side of Dungeness and accretion on the east side. Analysis using historic images, GPR, and Lidar reveals changes in beach accretion and ridge patterns over the past 80 years.
APPLIED SCIENCES-BASEL
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Ocean
Thomas Hasiotis, Iason-Zois Gazis, Marianthi Anastasatou, Evangelia Manoutsoglou, Adonis F. Velegrakis, Vasileios Kapsimalis, Aikaterini Karditsa, Michael Stamatakis
Summary: This study reveals the potential of exploitable marine aggregate deposits around Lesvos Island for beach replenishment purposes. The findings show that there are sands suitable for nourishment schemes, which can be used for eroded beaches or artificial beach development. Prioritization of specific areas for detailed surveying is recommended, taking into account environmental constraints and human activities.
MARINE GEORESOURCES & GEOTECHNOLOGY
(2021)
Article
Oceanography
Yazhuang Zhao, Hongshuai Qi, Shaohua Zhao, Feng Cai, Jianhui Liu, Pu Xu, Zheyu Xiao, Yanyu He, Zhiyong Zhang
Summary: This study analyzes the nourishment effect and disaster reduction efficiency of a fully dissipative dry beach under the impact of storms through numerical modeling. The results show that the nourished dry beach has a significant wave reduction effect under normal wave conditions. However, the nourishment effect is weakened and the profile recovery effect is not obvious under storm conditions.
ACTA OCEANOLOGICA SINICA
(2023)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Ramy Y. Marmoush, Ryan P. Mulligan
Summary: The nearshore hydrodynamics on a steep beach involve rapid wave transformation and generation of currents. The experimental results indicate the importance of the alongshore momentum flux from wave breaking to advection and mixing.
ESTUARIES AND COASTS
(2023)
Article
Geology
Xia Zhang, Chun-Ming Lin, Robert W. Dalrymple, Shou-Ye Yang
Summary: The Changjiang River discharges a large amount of sediment into the East China Sea, influencing the evolution of the downstream Qiantang River system. This study quantitatively tracks the change in sediment import from the Changjiang to the Qiantang River valley over the past 8,000 years. As the Changjiang delta prograded, the proportion of sediment input from the Changjiang to the Qiantang River valley decreased.
Article
Oceanography
B. C. Ludka, R. T. Guza, W. C. O'Reilly, M. L. Yates
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2015)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
B. C. Ludka, T. W. Gallien, S. C. Crosby, R. T. Guza
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2016)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Patrick L. Barnard, Daniel Hoover, David M. Hubbard, Alex Snyder, Bonnie C. Ludka, Jonathan Allan, George M. Kaminsky, Peter Ruggiero, Timu W. Gallien, Laura Gabel, Diana McCandless, Heather M. Weiner, Nicholas Cohn, Dylan L. Anderson, Katherine A. Serafin
NATURE COMMUNICATIONS
(2017)
Article
Astronomy & Astrophysics
Deidre A. Hunter, Bruce G. Elmegreen, Bonnie C. Ludka
ASTRONOMICAL JOURNAL
(2010)
Article
Oceanography
Paola Cessi, Christopher L. Wolfe, Bonnie C. Ludka
JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY
(2010)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Adam P. Young, Reinhard E. Flick, Timu W. Gallien, Sarah N. Giddings, R. T. Guza, M. Harvey, Luc Lenain, B. C. Ludka, W. Kendall Melville, W. C. O'Reilly
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2018)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
B. C. Ludka, R. T. Guza, W. C. O'Reilly, M. A. Merrifield, R. E. Flick, A. S. Bak, T. Hesser, R. Bucciarelli, C. Olfe, B. Woodward, W. Boyd, K. Smith, M. Okihiro, R. Grenzeback, L. Parry, G. Boyd
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Jennifer Montano, Giovanni Coco, Jose A. A. Antolinez, Tomas Beuzen, Karin R. Bryan, Laura Cagigal, Bruno Castelle, Mark A. Davidson, Evan B. Goldstein, Raimundo Ibaceta, Deborah Idier, Bonnie C. Ludka, Sina Masoud-Ansari, Fernando J. Mendez, A. Brad Murray, Nathaniel G. Plant, Katherine M. Ratliff, Arthur Robinet, Ana Rueda, Nadia Senechal, Joshua A. Simmons, Kristen D. Splinter, Scott Stephens, Ian Townend, Sean Vitousek, Kilian Vos
SCIENTIFIC REPORTS
(2020)
Article
Engineering, Civil
N. Kalligeris, P. B. Smit, B. C. Ludka, R. T. Guza, T. W. Gallien
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2020)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Julia W. Fiedler, Adam P. Young, Bonnie C. Ludka, William C. O'Reilly, Cassandra Henderson, Mark A. Merrifield, R. T. Guza
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Mark A. Merrifield, Mele Johnson, R. T. Guza, Julia W. Fiedler, Adam P. Young, Cassandra S. Henderson, Athina M. Z. Lange, William C. O'Reilly, Bonnie C. Ludka, Michele Okihiro, Timu Gallien, Kyle Pappas, Laura Engeman, James Behrens, Eric Terrill
Summary: At Imperial Beach, waves can overtop berms and seawalls during energetic winter swells and high tides, posing flooding risks. A flood warning system has been developed to support city flood response and management, utilizing wave models and water level forecasts to predict total water level. Various wave and water level conditions can lead to flooding, and model errors are most significant during extreme events.
Article
Engineering, Civil
B. C. Ludka, A. P. Young, R. T. Guza, W. C. O'Reilly, M. A. Merrifield
Summary: A study found that a subaerial beach nourishment project at Imperial Beach, California led to the spread of sand alongshore and erosion of sand in front of flood-prone homes while accumulation of sand occurred near the river mouth. These erosion/accretion patterns were observed both before and after the nourishment. The migration of the river mouth may be due to the presence of nourishment sand and the intensification of local drift convergence caused by El Nino. The study also proposed a computationally efficient drift gradient model that can predict the overall patterns of alongshore nourishment evolution and provide a framework for sand management.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Matthieu A. de Schipper, Bonnie C. Ludka, Britt Raubenheimer, Arjen P. Luijendijk, Thomas. A. Schlacher
Summary: Beach nourishment, the addition of sand to increase beach width or volume, is a commonly used coastal management technique to combat erosion globally. In response to rising sea levels, storms, and decreasing sand supplies, beach nourishment has evolved to consider human safety, water recreation, groundwater dynamics, and ecosystem impacts. As the future of beach nourishment practices depends on factors like local vulnerability, sand availability, government regulations, and societal perceptions, multidisciplinary research is recommended to better understand the impacts of nourishments and guide diverse practices.
NATURE REVIEWS EARTH & ENVIRONMENT
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Kuifeng Zhao, Yufei Wang, Philip L. -F. Liu
Summary: This note provides guidelines for selecting appropriate analytical periodic water wave solutions based on two physical parameters. The guidelines are summarized in a graphic format and the dividing lines between applicable wave theories are determined by the nonlinearity and frequency dispersion ratios.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Jana Haddad, Johanna H. Rosman, Richard A. Luettich, Christine M. Voss
Summary: Understanding wave transformation in marsh vegetation canopies is crucial for assessing nature-based shoreline strategies. This study investigates the challenges of accurately modeling wave dissipation in coastal marshes and proposes a new dimensionless parameter to represent the canopy drag coefficient (C-D). The study finds that uncertainties in vegetation measurements lead to variations in C-D expressions, and suggests using the Cauchy number (Ca) as the more appropriate parameter for larger waves.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Arnold van Rooijen, Ad Reniers, Marion Tissier, Floris de Wit, Marcel Zijlema
Summary: This paper extends the non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to account for the influence of a depth-uniform ambient current on wave dynamics. The model's ability is verified by comparing predictions to results from linear theory, laboratory experiments, and a spectral wave model. The extended model accurately captures current-induced changes in the wave field and simulations of wave dynamics in the presence of strong opposing currents.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Zhihao Shen, Duruo Huang, Gang Wang, Feng Jin
Summary: In this study, a resolved CFD-DEM coupling procedure was proposed to study the interaction of waves and irregularly shaped armour units. The model was validated by comparing the numerical results with a flume wave erosion test. The influence of armour shape on overtopping discharge, pressure distribution, and vortex structure was also studied.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Xinyu Hou, Zhonghua Weng, Xin Chen, Gengfa Chen
Summary: A single-phase model is proposed to predict sediment motion on vortex rippled bed under wave action. The model takes into account the acceleration effect of bottom sediment, the development of asymmetric boundary layer, and the sediment phase-lag, and successfully predicts the velocity, concentration, and development of sediment cloud on vortex ripples.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Mark Loveland, Eirik Valseth, Jessica Meixner, Clint Dawson
Summary: This article discusses the importance of using numerical models to predict the wind wave spectrum of the ocean. The article explores various finite element discretizations of the Wave Action Balance Equation and examines their convergence properties through simplified 2-D test cases. It also introduces a new spectral wind wave model called WAVEx and its implementation method.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Yuan Li, Chi Zhang, Shaohua Zhao, Hongshuai Qi, Feng Cai, Jinhai Zheng
Summary: Sandy-muddy transitional beaches (SMT-Beaches) are a type of coastal formation consisting of upper sandy beach and lower mudflat. This study examined the morphological characteristics of SMT-Beaches and the mechanisms of the formation of sandmud transition (SMT) boundary. Field surveys were conducted on SMT-Beaches in South China Coasts and a new equilibrium profile function for SMT-Beaches was developed. The function demonstrated good performance and improved accuracy compared to traditional methods. It was also found that sediment characteristics differ on both sides of the SMT boundary, with clay-to-silt grains increasing seaward.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
He Ma, Ludi Xu, Samuel Ukpong Okon, Peng Hu, Wei Li, Huabin Shi, Zhiguo He
Summary: This study presents a coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes during storm surges. The model accurately simulates the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Myung Jin Koh, Hyoungsu Park, Albert S. Kim
Summary: A framework combining tsunami flow model and debris transport model is developed to evaluate the kinematics of multiple debris and sequential hazards in a coastal community. The impact of tsunami-driven debris at Honolulu Harbor, Hawaii is assessed by simulating the motion of 2500 shipping containers under a hypothetical tsunami event. New types of intensity measures for tsunami-driven debris hazards are introduced, and hazard maps showing the potential impact loadings from debris dispersion are presented.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)