Article
Geography, Physical
Melanie Biausque, Emilia Guisado-Pintado, Edoardo Grottoli, Derek W. T. Jackson, J. Andrew G. Cooper
Summary: The study investigated the morphological changes in multiple intertidal bar beach systems in relation to temporal and spatial hydrodynamic forcing using field survey data from Dundrum Bay, Northern Ireland, and SWAN wave model simulations. It found that seasonal variations in wave conditions affected the stability and migration of the sandbars, with complex patterns of sediment movement observed. Ultimately, the results challenge the traditional seasonal equilibrium model for MITB systems and emphasize the importance of longer-term sediment dynamics.
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
L. D. Engelbrecht, A. N. Green, J. A. G. Cooper, C. F. Mackay
Summary: Using advanced geophysical tools and sampling techniques, this study investigates the influence of antecedent geology on the evolution of a subaqueous delta. The results show that bedrock elevation, shoreline features, and basement topography play crucial roles in shaping the morphology and sediment distribution of the delta.
Article
Environmental Studies
Catherine McManus, Alistair McIlgorm, Rachel Nichols, Andrew Cooper
Summary: With the prioritisation of sustainable development for marine resources and areas, the study examines the extent to which ocean accounts can be applied to regional marine areas. The research identifies gaps between available marine data sets and the requirements of ocean accounts, highlighting the need for adaptation and realignment by agencies to meet stakeholder needs. The case study suggests that pilot exercises based on ocean account information are crucial for developing integrated plans for a sustainable industry and community.
Article
Marine & Freshwater Biology
Klervi Hamon-Kerivel, Derek W. T. Jackson, Emilia Guisado-Pintado, Andrew Cooper, Mouncef Sedrati
Summary: Shorefaces are transitional zones between the shelf and surfzone/beach systems. They are influenced by local wave forcing and pre-existing shoreface morphology, resulting in distinct spatial and temporal variations in zonation patterns and physical extent. The seabed morphology of the shorefaces controls the bed shear stress distribution and impacts sediment availability for transport to the nearshore zone and local beach systems. The influence of shoreface morphology is an important but often overlooked element in the study of coastal behavior and response to climate change.
ESTUARINE COASTAL AND SHELF SCIENCE
(2023)
Article
Geography, Physical
Sashan L. Manikam, Andrew N. Green, Andrew Cooper, Gaynor Deacon, Burghard Flemming
Summary: Relict rocky shorelines are rarely preserved in geological records and their scarcity and preservation conditions are not well understood. In South Africa, a series of submerged shorelines have been found on the Wild Coast shelf, reflecting different sedimentation and erosion processes and sea-level fluctuations.
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Richard Love, Derek W. T. Jackson, Timothy Michaels, Thomas A. G. Smyth, Jean-Philippe Avouac, Andrew Cooper
Summary: The processes of sediment transport in Mars' atmosphere and their impact on aeolian deposits are not fully understood. Computational Fluid Dynamics simulations at the microscale provide insights into near-surface processes that cannot be captured by larger-scale atmospheric modeling. Integrating mesoscale and microscale modeling techniques enables a more realistic understanding of surface wind forcing and its effects on martian surfaces.
Article
Geography, Physical
Edoardo Grottoli, Melanie Biausque, Derek W. T. Jackson, J. Andrew G. Cooper
Summary: This study analyzed the shoreline evolution of Dundrum Bay in Northern Ireland over the past two centuries. The analysis found that the shoreline remained largely stable in the first 87 years, with changes mainly focused at the inlet area. However, localized retreat occurred in the western sector (Newcastle-Murlough) in the 20th century, while the eastern sector (Ballykinler) experienced general shoreline advance. The strongest erosional episodes were recorded in 1920-1951, 1997-2005, and 2012-2014.
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
(2023)
Article
Geography, Physical
Andrew Green, Warwick Hastie, Andrew Cooper, Dylan Lightfoot
Summary: This paper investigates anomalously large submerged marine potholes found on a submerged aeolianite shore platform in South Africa. The potholes are mapped using various methods and are found to be significantly larger than previously recorded. The formation of these potholes is attributed to chemical weathering and is possibly associated with specific climatic periods. The evolution of the shore platform morphology is influenced by geological contingencies and weathering processes.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
W. G. Johnston, J. A. G. Cooper, J. Olynik
Summary: This study presents a case study of historical shoreline change at Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman, and reveals the importance of the local geomorphic setting on shoreline behavior. The results show erosion at the margins and accretion in the central part of the beach, consistent with its leeside setting. The historic pattern of shoreline change was restored within 2 years, despite the effects of coastal structures and erosion abatement measures.
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Kieran Westley, Julia Nikolaus, Ahmad Emrage, Nic Flemming, Andrew Cooper
Summary: Coastal erosion in Eastern Libya poses a significant threat to archaeological sites and cultural heritage management. This study uses satellite imagery to assess shoreline change and identifies extensive erosion around ancient harbor sites. The results suggest that increased human activities, such as sand mining and urbanization, have contributed to accelerated coastal retreat. Forecasts based on current erosion rates highlight the imminent damage and destruction of archaeological features and structures. Mitigation efforts should focus on raising awareness of environmental problems and conducting more intensive surveys and documentation of at-risk sites.
Article
Geography, Physical
Melanie Biausque, Derek W. T. Jackson, Edoardo Grottoli, J. Andrew G. Cooper
Summary: Although Multiple Intertidal Bar Systems (MITBs) exhibit long-term morphological persistence, they display short-term, especially seasonal, morphodynamic behavior. The analysis of monthly surveys reveals a link between strong seasonality in wave climate and MITB beach behavior. Summer conditions limit sediment exchange and stabilize MITB beach morphology, while high-energy winter conditions drive sediment transport and promote bar recovery. Alongshore dynamics are also influenced by seasonality, with winter high-energy forcing enhancing channel migration rates and sediment transport. Differences in local geology and beach morphology contribute to variations in dynamics between study sites, but the primary role of the inlet in sediment circulation is highlighted.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Wilson Fabiano Leite Galvao, Antonio Henrique da Fontoura Klein, Michel Michaelovitch de Mahiques, Christopher J. Hein, Luiz Antonio Pereira de Sousa, Andrew Cooper, Andrew Green
Summary: The geological structure and post-glacial coastal evolution history of Babitonga Bay in Santa Catarina, Brazil were studied, revealing two distinct incised valleys formed at different geological periods, and the formation and development of the valleys were confirmed through relevant stratigraphic and seismic-stratigraphic research. With the rise and fall of sea level, coastal lagoons and sandy spits appeared in the bay, and the sedimentary environment in the estuarine mouth constantly changed. This study broadens our understanding of the response of similar estuary/coastal sedimentary system environments to sea level changes.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Anna Cescon, J. Cooper, Derek Jackson, Antoine Collin, Shannon Gore
Summary: Anegada Island, the easternmost part of the Virgin Islands group, is surrounded by the world's third-largest fringing reef, Horseshoe Reef. The shoreline morphology and position on the island are influenced by different factors, with distinct behaviors observed in three regions: the northern shore is affected by longshore drift and high-energy events, the western end experiences erosion and sediment transport due to refracted waves, while the south-central shoreline is stable and colonized by mangroves. The fringing reef plays a dominant role in controlling the shoreline's morphology and position.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Biology
Kieran Westley, Andrew Cooper, Ruth Plets
Summary: During the winter storms of 2019, a deposit of organic-rich clay containing animal tracks was found in the intertidal zone of a beach near Streedagh. Radiocarbon dating suggests that the tracks were made in the late Holocene, after 5800 and before 4000 cal BP. This discovery provides evidence of palaeoenvironmental conditions and the possibility of finding similar ichnological evidence in Ireland.
BIOLOGY AND ENVIRONMENT-PROCEEDINGS OF THE ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY
(2023)