Article
Engineering, Civil
Jose Carlos Pintado-Patino, Jack A. Puleo, Douglas Krafft, Alec Torres-Freyermuth
Summary: The experimental study provides detailed measurements of swash zone hydrodynamics, sediment transport flux, and bed changes over a movable sand bed with a steep slope. It shows that sheet flow sediment dominates over suspended load during sediment transport, and the relative contribution of sheet flow decreases over time and space. The results also indicate close agreement between different approaches for estimating sediment transport in the swash zone.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
M. Pontiki, J. A. Puleo, H. Bond, M. Wengrove, R. A. Feagin, T. J. Hsu, T. Huff
Summary: This study explores the response of a near-prototype berm to scaled storm conditions and finds that berm overtopping and offshore sediment transport are key processes causing berm erosion. Additionally, the formation of offshore sand bars attenuates subsequent wave energy and inhibits inundation of the backshore. Sediment transport in the swash zone is predominantly influenced by infragravity motions, while sediment transport in the inner-sur zone is relatively more influenced by incident-band motions.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2023)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
M. Pontiki, J. A. Puleo, H. Bond, M. Wengrove, R. A. Feagin, T. -j. Hsu, T. Huff
Summary: This study investigates the response of sand berms to storm conditions. Results indicate that overtopping and offshore sediment transport are key processes causing berm erosion. The formation of offshore sand bars attenuates subsequent wave energy and inhibits inundation of the backshore.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2023)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Yuan Xu, Heidi Nepf
Summary: The study found that the morphology of real plants can affect the vertical distribution of suspended sediment, thus altering the classic model for sediment concentration in river beds. The dense part of Typha latifolia leaves had a relatively uniform suspended sediment concentration, while the upper region with dispersed leaves had decreasing concentration with height.
WATER RESOURCES RESEARCH
(2021)
Article
Environmental Sciences
C. E. Renshaw, E. N. Dethier, J. D. Landis, J. M. Kaste
Summary: The input of organic matter into stream channels is an important energy source for headwater ecosystems and plays a crucial role in the global carbon cycle. The study focuses on quantifying the mobilization, transport, and storage of organic-rich fine sediment in a Strahler fourth-order stream during intermediate-sized storm events. It is found that the channel bed is consistently a source of suspended load to the channel margins, and the trapping of suspended load by riparian margins limits sediment transport distance and decouples the channel from local terrestrial organic matter exchange.
WATER RESOURCES RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Joost W. M. Kranenborg, Geert H. P. Campmans, Niels G. Jacobsen, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Ad J. H. M. Reniers, Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher
Summary: In this study, a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model implemented in OpenFOAM was presented for simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The model performance was evaluated by comparing with field-scale measurements of solitary waves, showing reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and sediment transport volumes. The model demonstrated the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Mechanics
K. Zhao, F. Pomes, B. Vowinckel, T. -J. Hsu, B. Bai, E. Meiburg
Summary: This study investigates the dynamics of cohesive particles in homogeneous isotropic turbulence, showing that weaker cohesive forces and larger turbulent shear result in smaller elongated flocs. Intermediate cohesive forces produce the largest flocs during the transient stage, while stronger cohesive forces yield larger flocs during equilibrium. Additionally, flocs tend to align with the strongest Lagrangian stretching direction, with smaller flocs aligning with the extensional strain direction.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2021)
Review
Engineering, Marine
Troels Aagaard, Joost Brinkkemper, Drude F. Christensen, Michael G. Hughes, Gerben Ruessink
Summary: Experimental results suggest that with increasing turbulence levels, peaks in suspended sediment concentration shift forward on the wave phase, and the near-bed sediment concentration scales with turbulent kinetic energy. The magnitude and intra-wave phase of turbulence production and sediment concentration depend on wave type, seabed configuration, and relative wave height, which may lead to more accurate predictions of transport rates for different wave and beach conditions.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Review
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
W. Chen, J. J. van der Werf, S. J. M. H. Hulscher
Summary: The swash zone plays a crucial role in nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. Proper prediction of swash zone sand transport is important for evaluating beach management scenarios. This paper describes the advances in understanding the physical processes and factors influencing sand transport in the swash zone and discusses practical models for predicting long-term beach evolution.
EARTH-SCIENCE REVIEWS
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Ioannis Kazakis, Theophanis V. Karambas
Summary: This study numerically investigates the 3D hydrodynamic processes in coastal zones, such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM. The numerical scheme incorporates the initial conditions of wave propagation and absorption using the waves2Foam wave library. Turbulence closure is handled with a buoyancy modified k-omega SST model. A transport-rate formula for sediment transport is implemented to predict the sediment transport rate due to waves and currents. The results are compared with experimental data and semi-empirical expressions for wave height, longshore current, turbulence kinetic energy, and sediment transport.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Andrew J. Moodie, Jeffrey A. Nittrouer, Hongbo Ma, Brandee N. Carlson, Yuanjian Wang, Michael P. Lamb, Gary Parker
Summary: This study demonstrates that sediment concentration may influence the magnitude and pattern of vertical density stratification through sampling and measurement under different flow conditions in the lower reach of the Yellow River. The importance lies in the understanding of the vertical density stratification phenomenon in natural river flows, which can improve sediment transport models and provide guidance for ecological environmental management and flood protection measures in rivers.
WATER RESOURCES RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
G. Calvani, C. Carbonari, L. Solari
Summary: Vegetation plays a crucial role in riverine environments by influencing hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. This study derived analytical formulations to predict the thresholds for vegetation colonization based on flow velocity and Froude number, considering submergence conditions. The results highlight the importance of vegetation characteristics and flow regime in determining the thresholds, and provide insights for river restoration projects and understanding bio-morphological changes.
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Teresa Serra, Marianna Soler, Aina Barcelona, Jordi Colomer
Summary: Sediment-replenished artificial flooding results in a more balanced suspended sediment transport compared to non-sediment-replenishment cases, with higher sedimentation rates during flood events.
JOURNAL OF HYDROLOGY
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Sami Kaidi, Hassan Smaoui, Philippe Sergent
Summary: Inland ships are increasingly becoming larger and more powerful for competitive reasons, which has multiple environmental impacts including channel bed erosion and sediment suspension. By implementing a sediment transport model within a Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) model, it is possible to accurately simulate the flow around the ship hull and induced shear stress at the bottom to better predict and understand this erosion phenomenon. The coupled model was verified and validated, showing satisfactory results and allowing for the assessment of various parameters' influence on the erosion phenomenon.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Chien-Yung Tseng, Rafael O. Tinoco
Summary: A two-layer, turbulence-based model was developed to predict suspended sediment concentration profiles in emergent vegetated flows. The model takes into account turbulence generated from vegetation, bed, and coherent structures caused by stem-bed-flow interaction to calculate the effective bed shear velocity.
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2021)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Paul M. Bayle, Daniel C. Conley, Gerd Masselink, Emily Gulson, Isabel Kelly, Rafael Almar, Ian L. Turner, Tom E. Baldock, Tomas Beuzen, Robert T. McCall, Huub Rijper, Ad Reniers, Peter Troch, David Gallach-Sanchez, Alan J. Hunter, Oscar Bryan, Gwyn Hennessey, Peter Ganderton, Marion Tissier, Matthias Kudella, Stefan Schimmels
Summary: High quality laboratory measurements of nearshore waves and morphology change are crucial for understanding coastal processes. The DynaRev experiment studied sandy beach response to water level rise and wave conditions with and without a dynamic cobble berm revetment, using a large array of instrumentation to capture wave transformation, beach profile change, and detailed hydro and morphodynamic measurements.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
G. Masselink, R. McCall, E. Beetham, P. Kench, C. Storlazzi
Summary: Coral reefs are important natural breakwaters for low-lying sedimentary reef islands, but increased sea-level rise can compromise their effectiveness. While reef accretion in response to sea-level rise can positively contribute to island resilience, the impact of different future reef accretion trajectories on island morphology remains unknown. Studies using a morphodynamic model show that reef growth affects wave processes and island morphology, but does not decrease coastal flooding and island inundation. Island elevation adjustment to maximum wave runup is crucial for island resilience against sea-level rise, with overwash discharge playing a key role in island construction or destruction. Islands can grow vertically to keep up with sea-level rise through flooding and overwash under specific conditions, but this physical response may negatively impact developed islands' infrastructure and assets.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2021)
Correction
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Paul M. Bayle, Daniel C. Conley, Gerd Masselink, Emily Gulson, Isabel Kelly, Rafael Almar, Ian L. Turner, Tom E. Baldock, Tomas Beuzen, Robert T. McCall, Huub Rijper, Ad Reniers, Peter Troch, David Gallach-Sanchez, Alan J. Hunter, Oscar Bryan, Gwyn Hennessey, Peter Ganderton, Marion Tissier, Matthias Kudella, Stefan Schimmels
Summary: A correction to this paper has been published.
Article
Geography
Sandro De Muro, Carla Buosi, Manuela Biondo, Angelo Ibba, Andrea Ruju, Daniele Trogu, Marco Porta
Summary: This paper presents a map of the coastal and marine areas of the Archipelago of La Maddalena in the western Mediterranean, aiming to support sustainable beach management and contribute to the Agenda 2030 Sustainable Development Goals. Based on an interdisciplinary approach, the map divides the beach systems and inner shelf into thematic sections, providing substantial scientific support for policymakers in vulnerability-assessment activities and land-management strategies.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Simon Hird, Christopher Stokes, Gerd Masselink
Summary: Coastal dune erosion is a critical issue in the face of rising sea levels and increased storminess. This study focuses on the severe erosion of the climbing dune system at Crantock beach in north Cornwall, UK, which has shown acceleration despite reduced severe storm events since 2013/14. The shifting channel of the River Gannel and ongoing river avulsion have played a significant role in the decoupled nature and emergent response of the dune system at Crantock.
Review
Oceanography
J. A. Kirby, G. Masselink, S. Essex, T. Poate, T. Scott
Summary: Climate change and accelerated sea-level rise are expected to increase flooding and erosion on coastlines worldwide. Coastal managers are increasingly using planning policy to mitigate risks, as traditional hard engineering becomes unsustainable. In England, policy allows authorities to restrict certain developments in areas at risk, but implementation and effectiveness are hindered by inadequate guidance and variations in available datasets for mapping coastal change areas.
OCEAN & COASTAL MANAGEMENT
(2021)
Article
Oceanography
Tim Scott, Gerd Masselink, Christopher Stokes, Tim Poate, Adam Wooler, Steve Instance
Summary: Drowning is a leading cause of unintentional fatalities worldwide, but preventive measures such as public education and involvement of lifeguards can significantly reduce the risks, particularly on beaches. The collaboration between the UK beach lifeguarding community and the Coastal Processes Research Group at the University of Plymouth has resulted in a 15-year body of work that has helped in understanding and managing the key hazards on UK beaches. The research has contributed to beach safety management globally and highlights the importance of collaboration and evaluation in achieving research impact.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Gerd Masselink, Sue Brooks, Tim Poate, Christopher Stokes, Tim Scott
Summary: This study investigates the dynamics of 25 coastal dune systems along the north coast of SW England and compares observed behavior with hindcasted and forecasted dune retreat rates. The study shows that most dune systems are retreating, with rates higher than predicted. It suggests that sea-level rise alone may not be enough to explain the observed retreat, and increased storminess may also play a role.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Siya Jin, Daming Wang, Martyn Hann, Keri Collins, Daniel Conley, Deborah Greaves
Summary: The present study aims to provide more data and insights for the hinged type wave energy converters (WEC), especially focusing on the two-body hinged raft WECs. A well-studied generic hinged raft WEC (G-HRWEC) and a 1:25 scale designed hinged raft WEC (D-HRWEC) are considered. The open-source tool WEC-Sim is used in numerical studies and the model is corrected to simulate the two-body hinged WEC. Physical results show linear motion under small waves but significant nonlinearities under large oscillations in the D-HRWEC. The updated WEC-Sim model accurately represents the nonlinear behavior observed in physical experiments with low computational cost, and predicts the annual average power of D-HRWEC in full scale.
Article
Green & Sustainable Science & Technology
Daming Wang, Siya Jin, Martyn Hann, Daniel Conley, Keri Collins, Deborah Greaves
Summary: In this paper, a novel method combining K-means clustering technique and Wave Hub measured data is proposed to determine representative sea states. The results show that the K-means clustering method better preserves the characteristics of the ocean area compared to the binning method. The impact of different regrouping methods on assessing the annual energy output of a WEC model is also investigated.
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
R. J. McCarroll, N. G. Valiente, M. Wiggins, T. Scott, G. Masselink
Summary: To understand how coastlines change over time in different environments, it is important to have records of beach morphologic change and concurrent hydrodynamic forcing. This study provides data from 2006 to 2021 for two contrasting macrotidal environments in southwest England, including a cross-shore dominated sandy beach and a longshore-dominated reflective gravel beach. The data includes beach profile surveys, topo-bathymetries, as well as observed and modeled wave and water levels. These data serve as a valuable resource for modeling coastal behavior not covered by other available datasets.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Aikaterini Konstantinou, Tim Scott, Gerd Masselink, Kit Stokes, Daniel Conley, Bruno Castelle
Summary: Earth observation coupled with novel image analysis techniques provides a unique and powerful tool for studying shoreline change at different scales. However, satellite-derived shoreline (SDS) data is limited in certain areas and affected by uncertainties related to environmental factors. We used topographic surveys at two macrotidal sites in the UK to investigate the influence of tidal elevation and wave action on SDS accuracy. Our results show that applying appropriate water level corrections can significantly improve SDS accuracy and that the optimal approach depends on the beach type and shoreline translation method used.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Mitchell D. Harley, Gerd Masselink, Amaia Ruiz de Alegria-Arzaburu, Nieves G. Valiente, Tim Scott
Summary: High-resolution morphology data from Australia, the UK and Mexico shows that episodic coastal sediment deposition during extreme storms can offset projected shoreline retreat caused by sea level rise. Extreme storms, although causing erosion, can also contribute positively to the sediment budget by exchanging sediment between different areas, mitigating the impacts of sea level rise.
COMMUNICATIONS EARTH & ENVIRONMENT
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Alyssa M. LeClaire, Eric N. Powell, Roger Mann, Kathleen M. Hemeon, Sara M. Pace, Vincent Saba, Hubert du Pontavice, Jillian R. Sower
Summary: Arctica islandica is an important species for recording climate change on the U.S. northeast continental shelf, and its growth rates show synchronous changes with cold and warm climatic periods. This study finds that A. islandica near the Delmarva Peninsula had higher growth rates during cold periods, possibly due to increased food supply in shallower water. The range recession of this species is a long-term process determined by the survivorship of older individuals.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2024)
