Article
Engineering, Marine
Ioannis Kazakis, Theophanis V. Karambas
Summary: This study numerically investigates the 3D hydrodynamic processes in coastal zones, such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM. The numerical scheme incorporates the initial conditions of wave propagation and absorption using the waves2Foam wave library. Turbulence closure is handled with a buoyancy modified k-omega SST model. A transport-rate formula for sediment transport is implemented to predict the sediment transport rate due to waves and currents. The results are compared with experimental data and semi-empirical expressions for wave height, longshore current, turbulence kinetic energy, and sediment transport.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Mariano Buccino, Angela Di Leo, Sara Tuozzo, Luis F. Cordova Lopez, Mario Calabrese, Fabio Dentale
Summary: This research investigates wave overtopping of a vertical seawall in an uneven surf zone using physical and numerical experiments. The results show that the CFD-RANS model is accurately in line with laboratory measurements, while the SWASH model overestimates certain measurements and underpredicts the overtopping rate. The analysis of laboratory and numerical data indicates that the overtopping rate is dependent on the high percentiles of the wave elevation distribution, rather than the wave spectrum shape.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Joost W. M. Kranenborg, Geert H. P. Campmans, Niels G. Jacobsen, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Ad J. H. M. Reniers, Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher
Summary: In this study, a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model implemented in OpenFOAM was presented for simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The model performance was evaluated by comparing with field-scale measurements of solitary waves, showing reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and sediment transport volumes. The model demonstrated the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences
Renan F. da Silva, Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Jeff E. Hansen, Ryan Lowe, Mark Buckley, Marcel Zijlema
Summary: Analysis of mean momentum balance is a common approach to explain physical forcing in nearshore zones. The internal calculation method for depth-integrated mean momentum terms allows for a more accurate evaluation of wave-driven flows with reduced computation time and output storage requirements.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Paul M. Bayle, Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Kevin Martins, George M. Kaminsky, Heather M. Weiner, David Cottrell
Summary: Dynamic cobble berm revetments are a promising soft engineering technique for protecting sandy coastlines. The revetment at North Cove in Washington, USA, was monitored for a nine-day period, revealing rapid reshaping under energetic conditions. Extreme fluxes mainly occurred in the swash zone with a depth of 0.15-0.45 m, and deeper swashes only occurred in zones inundated more than 50% of the time.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
M. Pontiki, J. A. Puleo, H. Bond, M. Wengrove, R. A. Feagin, T. -j. Hsu, T. Huff
Summary: This study investigates the response of sand berms to storm conditions. Results indicate that overtopping and offshore sediment transport are key processes causing berm erosion. The formation of offshore sand bars attenuates subsequent wave energy and inhibits inundation of the backshore.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2023)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
M. Pontiki, J. A. Puleo, H. Bond, M. Wengrove, R. A. Feagin, T. J. Hsu, T. Huff
Summary: This study explores the response of a near-prototype berm to scaled storm conditions and finds that berm overtopping and offshore sediment transport are key processes causing berm erosion. Additionally, the formation of offshore sand bars attenuates subsequent wave energy and inhibits inundation of the backshore. Sediment transport in the swash zone is predominantly influenced by infragravity motions, while sediment transport in the inner-sur zone is relatively more influenced by incident-band motions.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Tristan B. Guest, Alex E. Hay
Summary: This study utilized aeroacoustic and optical remote sensing techniques to observe the morpho-sedimentary dynamics in the swash zone of a mixed sand-gravel beach. The data showed a correlation between increases in bed level and mean grain size, as well as finer-scale structures and the migration of coarse-grained material. Close-range remote sensing techniques provided valuable insights into the dynamics of cobble-sized and sand-sized particles in the swash zone.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
C. E. Blenkinsopp, P. M. Bayle, K. Martins, O. W. Foss, L-P Almeida, G. M. Kaminsky, S. Schimmels, H. Matsumoto
Summary: The effects of climate change, sea level rise, and overpopulation are causing increasing stress on coastal regions. This paper presents a new methodology for predicting wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments, based on high-resolution measurements and insights from field and laboratory experiments.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Jose Carlos Pintado-Patino, Jack A. Puleo, Douglas Krafft, Alec Torres-Freyermuth
Summary: The experimental study provides detailed measurements of swash zone hydrodynamics, sediment transport flux, and bed changes over a movable sand bed with a steep slope. It shows that sheet flow sediment dominates over suspended load during sediment transport, and the relative contribution of sheet flow decreases over time and space. The results also indicate close agreement between different approaches for estimating sediment transport in the swash zone.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Review
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
W. Chen, J. J. van der Werf, S. J. M. H. Hulscher
Summary: The swash zone plays a crucial role in nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. Proper prediction of swash zone sand transport is important for evaluating beach management scenarios. This paper describes the advances in understanding the physical processes and factors influencing sand transport in the swash zone and discusses practical models for predicting long-term beach evolution.
EARTH-SCIENCE REVIEWS
(2023)
Article
Oceanography
Giulia Mancini, Riccardo Briganti, Robert McCall, Nicholas Dodd, Fangfang Zhu
Summary: This study aims to improve the numerical modeling of intra-wave sediment transport on sandy beaches by implementing a new transport equation in a wave-resolving hydro-morphodynamic framework. Experimental results show better performance in simulating single waves compared to wave trains, indicating the need for further research in capturing sediment transport and bed evolution in the surf zone.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Chi Zhang, Yuan Li, Yu Cai, Jian Shi, Jinhai Zheng, Feng Cai, Hongshuai Qi
Summary: The study reveals a composite dependence of the wave breaker index gamma on both offshore wave steepness and normalized local water depth, proposing a new gamma formula that significantly improves wave height prediction accuracy. There are two counteractive physical mechanisms at play, the breaking intensification mechanism and the breaking resistance mechanism, explaining the opposite relationships between gamma and water depth under different offshore wave steepness conditions.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Dag Myrhaug, Hong Wang, Lars Erik Holmedal
Summary: The aim of the study is to demonstrate how wave statistics can be utilized in estimating the maximum relative uplift pressure on berm revetment with Seabee slope, by examining the joint distribution of significant wave height and surf parameter, and providing examples of the results.
COASTAL ENGINEERING JOURNAL
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Christine M. Baker, Melissa Moulton, Britt Raubenheimer, Steve Elgar, Nirnimesh Kumar
Summary: The study investigates the circulation patterns in the nearshore region by comparing numerical model simulations with measured bathymetry on a barred beach. It reveals that wave directional spread intensifies small-scale eddies, while bathymetric variability enhances large-scale eddies. The vertical dependence of circulation patterns in the simulations is influenced by turbulence structure, mean shear, and bottom boundary layer dynamics.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Joep van der Zanden, Dominic A. van der A, Ivan Caceres, Bjarke Eltard Larsen, Guillaume Fromant, Carmelo Petrotta, Pietro Scandura, Ming Li
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2019)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Joep van der Zanden, Ivan Caceres, Sonja Eichentopf, Jan S. Ribberink, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Jose M. Alsina
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2019)
Review
Environmental Sciences
Erik van Sebille, Stefano Aliani, Kara Lavender Law, Nikolai Maximenko, Jose M. Alsina, Andrei Bagaev, Melanie Bergmann, Bertrand Chapron, Irina Chubarenko, Andres Cozar, Philippe Delandmeter, Matthias Egger, Baylor Fox-Kemper, Shungudzemwoyo P. Garaba, Lonneke Goddijn-Murphy, Britta Denise Hardesty, Matthew J. Hoffman, Atsuhiko Isobe, Cleo E. Jongedijk, Mikael L. A. Kaandorp, Liliya Khatmullina, Albert A. Koelmans, Tobias Kukulka, Charlotte Laufkotter, Laurent Lebreton, Delphine Lobelle, Christophe Maes, Victor Martinez-Vicente, Miguel Angel Morales Maqueda, Marie Poulain-Zarcos, Ernesto Rodriguez, Peter G. Ryan, Alan L. Shanks, Won Joon Shim, Giuseppe Suaria, Martin Thiel, Ton S. van den Bremer, David Wichmann
ENVIRONMENTAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2020)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Sonja Eichentopf, Joep van der Zanden, Ivan Caceres, Tom E. Baldock, Jose M. Alsina
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2020)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Ivan Caceres, Jose M. Alsina, Joep van Der Zanden, Dominic A. van Der A, Jan S. Ribberink, Agustin Sanchez-Arcilla
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2020)
Article
Oceanography
Jose M. Alsina, Cleo E. Jongedijk, Erik van Sebille
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2020)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Agustin Sanchez-Arcilla, Vicente Gracia, Cesar Moesso, Ivan Caceres, Daniel Gonzalez-Marco, Jesus Gomez
Summary: Coastal hydro-morphodynamics present significant uncertainties, with a need to explicitly include error levels in the analysis. Outdated topo-bathymetry data can lead to uncertainties and impact decision-making outcomes.
FRONTIERS IN MARINE SCIENCE
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Enrique M. Padilla, Jose M. Alsina
Summary: Free-wave contamination is a common and undesirable characteristic in wave tank experiments. This study presents a method called GSC procedure to identify, quantify, and attenuate the contamination. The method achieves excellent results in experimental data with stable qualitative and quantitative analyses.
Article
Oceanography
Florian Grossmann, David Hurther, Joep van der Zanden, Ivan Caceres, Agustin Sanchez-Arcilla, Jose M. Alsina
Summary: This study conducted large-scale laboratory experiments on a steep initial beach slope, providing detailed insights into the hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes. The research revealed the relationships between velocity and sand concentration, as well as the morphological evolution related to wave dynamics.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Carlos Astudillo, Vicente Gracia, Ivan Caceres, Joan Pau Sierra, Agustin Sanchez-Arcilla
Summary: New flume experiments with surrogate seagrass meadows were conducted to evaluate the effect on wave attenuation, sediment transport, and shoreline erosion. The presence of seagrass reduced wave heights, decreased sediment transport, and resulted in smaller shoreline retreat, demonstrating its effectiveness in coastal protection.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Massimiliano Marino, Ivan Caceres Rabionet, Rosaria Ester Musumeci
Summary: An assessment of formulas to recover wave surface elevation from pressure measurements was carried out in this study. The investigation focused on the formulas' performance in the shoaling region. The formulas were tested in experiments with regular waves generated in a wave flume, and a simple method to determine a cutoff frequency for the wave signal was proposed. Results showed that all the investigated formulas recover wave elevation fairly well for low-nonlinearity waves, but overestimate wave crest height as nonlinearity increases. Nonlinear reconstruction formulas performed better in recovering the asymmetric distribution of the wave elevation.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Yaiza Samper, Manuel Espino, Maria Liste, Marc Mestres, Jose M. Alsina, Agustin Sanchez-Arcilla
Summary: In this study, the effect of meteorological parameters on harbour water exchanges is investigated using observations and numerical simulations. The combination of observed data and model information reveals that days with higher renewal times coincide with favourable wind-direction events or increases in atmospheric pressure, demonstrating the potential of using meteorological information to estimate currents and water exchanges between ports and their outer harbour area.
Article
Oceanography
Florian Grossmann, David Hurther, Agustin Sanchez-Arcilla, Jose M. Alsina
Summary: Onshore bar migration is a characteristic behavior of bars during the recovery of post-storm beaches. Large-scale experiments with bichromatic wave groups and evolving beach profiles were conducted to understand the link between wave conditions and beach configuration. The morphological evolution towards equilibrium differed depending on the initial post-storm beach profile, with accretive merging observed after larger storms and accretive non-merging observed after smaller storms.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Kuifeng Zhao, Yufei Wang, Philip L. -F. Liu
Summary: This note provides guidelines for selecting appropriate analytical periodic water wave solutions based on two physical parameters. The guidelines are summarized in a graphic format and the dividing lines between applicable wave theories are determined by the nonlinearity and frequency dispersion ratios.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Jana Haddad, Johanna H. Rosman, Richard A. Luettich, Christine M. Voss
Summary: Understanding wave transformation in marsh vegetation canopies is crucial for assessing nature-based shoreline strategies. This study investigates the challenges of accurately modeling wave dissipation in coastal marshes and proposes a new dimensionless parameter to represent the canopy drag coefficient (C-D). The study finds that uncertainties in vegetation measurements lead to variations in C-D expressions, and suggests using the Cauchy number (Ca) as the more appropriate parameter for larger waves.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Arnold van Rooijen, Ad Reniers, Marion Tissier, Floris de Wit, Marcel Zijlema
Summary: This paper extends the non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to account for the influence of a depth-uniform ambient current on wave dynamics. The model's ability is verified by comparing predictions to results from linear theory, laboratory experiments, and a spectral wave model. The extended model accurately captures current-induced changes in the wave field and simulations of wave dynamics in the presence of strong opposing currents.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Zhihao Shen, Duruo Huang, Gang Wang, Feng Jin
Summary: In this study, a resolved CFD-DEM coupling procedure was proposed to study the interaction of waves and irregularly shaped armour units. The model was validated by comparing the numerical results with a flume wave erosion test. The influence of armour shape on overtopping discharge, pressure distribution, and vortex structure was also studied.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Xinyu Hou, Zhonghua Weng, Xin Chen, Gengfa Chen
Summary: A single-phase model is proposed to predict sediment motion on vortex rippled bed under wave action. The model takes into account the acceleration effect of bottom sediment, the development of asymmetric boundary layer, and the sediment phase-lag, and successfully predicts the velocity, concentration, and development of sediment cloud on vortex ripples.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Mark Loveland, Eirik Valseth, Jessica Meixner, Clint Dawson
Summary: This article discusses the importance of using numerical models to predict the wind wave spectrum of the ocean. The article explores various finite element discretizations of the Wave Action Balance Equation and examines their convergence properties through simplified 2-D test cases. It also introduces a new spectral wind wave model called WAVEx and its implementation method.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Yuan Li, Chi Zhang, Shaohua Zhao, Hongshuai Qi, Feng Cai, Jinhai Zheng
Summary: Sandy-muddy transitional beaches (SMT-Beaches) are a type of coastal formation consisting of upper sandy beach and lower mudflat. This study examined the morphological characteristics of SMT-Beaches and the mechanisms of the formation of sandmud transition (SMT) boundary. Field surveys were conducted on SMT-Beaches in South China Coasts and a new equilibrium profile function for SMT-Beaches was developed. The function demonstrated good performance and improved accuracy compared to traditional methods. It was also found that sediment characteristics differ on both sides of the SMT boundary, with clay-to-silt grains increasing seaward.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
He Ma, Ludi Xu, Samuel Ukpong Okon, Peng Hu, Wei Li, Huabin Shi, Zhiguo He
Summary: This study presents a coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes during storm surges. The model accurately simulates the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Myung Jin Koh, Hyoungsu Park, Albert S. Kim
Summary: A framework combining tsunami flow model and debris transport model is developed to evaluate the kinematics of multiple debris and sequential hazards in a coastal community. The impact of tsunami-driven debris at Honolulu Harbor, Hawaii is assessed by simulating the motion of 2500 shipping containers under a hypothetical tsunami event. New types of intensity measures for tsunami-driven debris hazards are introduced, and hazard maps showing the potential impact loadings from debris dispersion are presented.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2024)