Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Gael Andre, Florian Bellafont, Fabien Leckler, Denis Morichon
Summary: The study analyzes tide gauge data to propose simple models for calculating seiche amplitudes at various French harbours and investigates the impact of incoming bound waves on seiche generation. The results show a strong correlation between incoming bound waves and low frequency harbour oscillations, and empirical formulations for predicting seiche events are suggested.
Article
Marine & Freshwater Biology
Seyed Masoud Mahmoudof, Jafar Azizpour, Amin Eyhavand-Koohzadi
Summary: This study analyzed the characteristics of infragravity waves based on field observations near the plunging cliffs of Chabahar bay, Iran. The study found different behaviors of infragravity waves under sea and swell conditions, as well as investigated the reflection and bound energy distribution of these waves.
ESTUARINE COASTAL AND SHELF SCIENCE
(2021)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Silke A. J. Tas, Dirk S. van Maren, Muhammad Helmi, Ad J. H. M. Reniers
Summary: This paper investigates the cross-shore dynamics of cheniers and discovers the existence of a highly dynamic but long-term stable state. The model developed in the study can predict the migration of cheniers.
Article
Oceanography
Andrew W. M. Pomeroy, Curt D. Storlazzi, Kurt J. Rosenberger, Ryan J. Lowe, Jeff E. Hansen, Mark L. Buckley
Summary: In reef-lagoon systems, suspended sediment is primarily transported close to the seabed and influenced by wave frequencies. Mean currents are the main transport mechanism, contributing significantly more suspended-sediment flux than sea-swell and infragravity waves.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2021)
Article
Chemistry, Multidisciplinary
Mohd Danish, Gyana Ranjan Tripathy
Summary: The abundance and distribution of barium in coastal regions is influenced by multiple sources and sinks. This study investigates the spatial distribution of dissolved barium concentrations in Chilika lagoon, India, and its source waters during different seasons. The results show that barium concentrations in the lagoon are higher during pre-monsoon and monsoon seasons compared to post-monsoon. Barium removal in low-salinity regions is attributed to its scavenging onto Fe-Mn oxyhydroxides. Desorptive release of barium from suspended sediments is mainly due to cationic replacement by seawater Mg. Additionally, a significant portion of dissolved barium remains unaccounted for and may be supplied by subsurface seawater recirculation and/or organic matter remineralization.
Article
Oceanography
Yoshinao Matsuba, Dano Roelvink, Ad J. H. M. Reniers, Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Takenori Shimozono
Summary: Understanding the directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves has important implications for coastal processes. This study proposes a novel method based on weakly nonlinear wave theory to reconstruct directional spectra of IG waves in intermediate water depths. Numerical experiments and observations demonstrate that the proposed method can accurately reconstruct the directional spectra of free IG waves. The study also reveals that the observed IG waves mainly result from the reflection of waves from the shore and/or coastal structures.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2022)
Article
Geography, Physical
Benjamin K. Norris, Julia C. Mullarney, Karin R. Bryan, Stephen M. Henderson
Summary: The spatial variability in vegetation density controls sediment transport at sub-meter scales within a wave-exposed mangrove forest. Infragravity waves are likely drivers of sediment transport within the mangrove forest. Near-bed turbulent kinetic energy is correlated with bed level changes in both the mangrove forest and the unvegetated mudflat.
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
(2021)
Article
Oceanography
Mark L. Buckley, Ryan J. Lowe, Jeff E. Hansen, Ap R. van Dongeren, Andrew Pomeroy, Curt D. Storlazzi, Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Renan F. da Silva, Stephanie Contardo, Rebecca H. Green
Summary: Wave breaking on steep fore-reef slopes can dissipate incident waves, but wave setup and infragravity waves contribute to wave-driven water levels. Laboratory experiments and numerical models show that fore-reef slope controls wave runup on reef-fronted beaches, while beach slope controls wave runup on plane beaches. The presence of tall roughness elements on reef flats can significantly reduce wave runup.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Yovani Montano-Ley, Martin F. Soto-Jimenez, Federico Paez-Osuna
Summary: A numerical model was used to investigate the tide-driven currents, sediment transport, and seabed morphodynamics of the Urias coastal lagoon. The lagoon, located on the eastern side of the Gulf of California, includes the Mazatlan harbour and an extensive aquaculture infrastructure. The model revealed the mixed character of tides in the lagoon and predicted sediment accretion in the middle part of the channel.
ENVIRONMENTAL FLUID MECHANICS
(2023)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Carlos Rocha, Shan Jiang, J. S. P. Ibanhez, Qiang Yang, Katerina Mazi, Antonis D. Koussis
Summary: The causal links between subterranean estuary dynamics, climatological drivers, and the ecology of coastal ecosystems are important for the integrated management of these systems. This study examines the composition of submarine groundwater discharge (SGD) to a lagoon and its regulation by the annual oscillation of the local subterranean estuary. The study finds that the dynamics of the subterranean estuary and the resulting pH oscillation determine the nutrient composition ratio in SGD and shape primary production dynamics, emphasizing the importance of linked groundwater reservoirs for ecosystem function.
SCIENCE OF THE TOTAL ENVIRONMENT
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Raul P. Flores, Megan E. Williams, Alexander R. Horner-Devine
Summary: This study presents the first observations of the impact of infragravity waves on the mouth of Rio Maipo in the surfzone. The findings show that wave dynamics significantly modulate the inlet dynamics, resulting in changes to the plume edge and width. The study suggests that the observed modulation is caused by wave-driven circulation at infragravity frequencies, which may enhance mixing and dispersion of river-borne materials.
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2022)
Review
Geochemistry & Geophysics
Christopher R. Sherwood, Ap van Dongeren, James Doyle, Christie A. Hegermiller, Tian-Jian Hsu, Tarandeep S. Kalra, Maitane Olabarrieta, Allison M. Penko, Yashar Rafati, Dano Roelvink, Marlies van der Lugt, Jay Veeramony, John C. Warner
Summary: This review focuses on recent advancements in process-based numerical models of extreme storms' impact on sandy coasts. These models, driven by larger-scale meteorology and hydrodynamics models, simulate various processes across the Sallenger storm-impact scale.
ANNUAL REVIEW OF MARINE SCIENCE
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Lidian Guo, Xiaozhou Ma, Guohai Dong
Summary: This study assessed the accuracy of the XBeach Surfbeat model in predicting IG waves inside a harbor. The results indicated that the model can accurately reproduce nearshore short and IG wave heights in an open domain, but needs further improvement in simulating the hydrodynamics in a well-sheltered harbor.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Yoshinao Matsuba, Takenori Shimozono, Yoshimitsu Tajima
Summary: This study investigated the extreme wave characteristics in Eastern Japan following two successive extreme typhoons, Faxai and Hagibis. The results of observations, surveys, and numerical simulations indicated that variations in runup heights were primarily attributed to alongshore variations of beach slope. Local high runup during Faxai was caused by concentrations of incident short waves, while extreme runup during Hagibis was contributed by trapped infragravity waves on the coastal bathymetry.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Ad J. H. M. Reniers, Remy Naporowski, Marion E. S. Tissier, Matthieu A. de Schipper, Gal Akrish, Dirk P. Rijnsdorp
Summary: In-situ observations in the North Sea reveal the presence of both free and bound infragravity waves at water depths of around 30 meters, with potential contributions to the total IG wave height. These findings suggest that the predicted bound IG waves can significantly affect the observed total IG wave height during storm conditions.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Geography, Physical
Jinjuan Gao, David M. Kennedy, Teresa M. Konlechner, Sarah McSweeney, Andre Chiaradia, Marita McGuirk
Summary: Over the past decades, changes in vegetation cover and dune mobility in the Woolamai dune fields on the southeast coast of Australia have undergone a transition from bare sand to fully stabilized state, with distinct early expansion, rapid growth, and recent quasi-equilibrium phases. Vegetation growth is influenced by multiple factors such as topography, climate, and human activities, with stability or mobility of the dune system depending on these interactions.
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
(2022)
Article
Archaeology
Justine Kemp, Jon Olley, Justin Stout, Timothy Pietsch
Summary: This study presents the first ages for Australian Aboriginal stone construction using single-grain OSL techniques, indicating a minimum age for construction between 1959 and 1981 AD. The gross geometry of the stone and sand courses was mapped to estimate dose rates, and the resulting OSL ages are internally consistent. This method can provide chronologies for stone building construction and occupation in sites where radiocarbon analysis is limited or unavailable.
GEOARCHAEOLOGY-AN INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL
(2022)
Article
Geography, Physical
David M. Kennedy, Beth Risdon, Josephine L. D. Woods
Summary: This study investigates the sedimentary sequences in estuaries in north west Nelson region of central New Zealand to determine the timing of the end of the Post Glacial Marine Transgression. The study reveals that the Parapara Inlet infilled due to lateral flood tide, fluvial delta progradation, and central basin infill at a consistent rate during the mid to late Holocene periods. Similarities in sea level curves for the end of the post glacial marine transgression at stable sites in northern New Zealand suggest a true eustatic signal for the New Zealand archipelago.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Runjie Yuan, David M. Kennedy, Wayne J. Stephenson, Brian L. Finlayson
Summary: Shore platforms evolve over millennial scales, but understanding how instantaneous processes affect long-term evolution remains a scientific challenge. Quantifying erosion of coastal bedrock at the micro-scale using various techniques allows for the study of shore platform evolution.
Review
Environmental Sciences
Marita T. McGuirk, David M. Kennedy, Teresa Konlechner
Summary: This article focuses on the influence of coastal vegetation on dune morphology and emphasizes the need for quantitative data. Current research mainly consists of descriptive and qualitative studies, lacking quantitative measurements. Obtaining quantitative data on coastal plant growth and sand-capture ability is urgently required to understand the response of dunes to climate change.
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Daniel Ierodiaconou, David M. Kennedy, Nicolas Pucino, Blake M. Allan, R. Jak McCarroll, Lawrance W. Ferns, Rafael C. Carvalho, Karina Sorrell, Chloe Leach, Mary Young
Summary: This study demonstrates the power of Citizen Science in providing high-quality and cost-effective data collection on the coast of Victoria, Australia. Through the collaborative project VCMP, citizen scientists were able to obtain adequate training and resources for surveys, driving significant management actions on the coast. The study also highlights the importance of data accessibility for community engagement and continued promotion during the COVID-19 pandemic lockdown.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Geography, Physical
Runjie Yuan, David M. Kennedy, Daniel A. Ierodiaconou
Summary: This study used UAV measurements to investigate how to extrapolate across different spatial scales. The results showed that randomly sampling a certain number of samples could represent the entire landform morphology well, while sample size had little effect on representativeness. The study also observed a spatial pattern of rock surface morphology on the shore platform, with higher slope and roughness at the seaward end indicating more intensive wave processes and erosion agents.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
James S. Daley, John R. Spencer, Andrew P. Brooks, Justin C. Stout, Robin Thwaites
Summary: Rainfall and runoff are significant contributors to gully erosion, with rainwash erosion on internal gully surfaces being an important process for large alluvial gullies.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Sarah Louise McSweeney, Justin C. Stout
Summary: Intermittently Open/Closed Estuaries (IOCEs) are estuaries that periodically close and can be artificially opened to relieve flooding. Whether an estuary remains open and drains its lagoon depends on the hydraulic gradient at opening and offshore wave height. Artifical openings are only successful when the hydraulic gradient is steeper than 0.017 m/m and wave height is below 4.30 m.
JOURNAL OF HYDROLOGY
(2023)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Nicolas Pucino, David M. Kennedy, Mary Young, Daniel Ierodiaconou
Summary: This study validates the accuracy of shoreline extraction using UAV survey data and deep learning methods. The results show that the best extraction method is using the WI index, while the NDWI index performs poorly. Additionally, the study highlights the spatial variability of shoreline extraction performances and suggests investigating the relationships between scene-dependent variables and shoreline accuracies in future research.
REMOTE SENSING OF ENVIRONMENT
(2022)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Rafael C. Carvalho, David Kennedy, Daniel Ierodiaconou
Summary: This study presents a comprehensive dataset of 138 surficial sediment samples collected from the shallow marine waters off the western coast of Victoria, Australia. The dataset serves as a benchmark to understand sediment dynamics and connectivity along the coast, and can support environmental and engineering studies.
Article
Geography, Physical
Jinjuan Gao, David M. Kennedy, Sarah McSweeney
Summary: The patterns and driving factors of vegetation expansion during dune stabilization were examined in three coastal dunefields in Victoria, Australia. The trajectory of vegetation expansion was found to be determined by dunefield topography, with colonization occurring at different parts of the dunefield. Pre-existing vegetation played a critical role in dune re-vegetation and subsequent expansion, as it provided seeds and changed the micro-climates. This research provides important insights into vegetation expansion during dune stabilization and can help identify management intervention opportunities.
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
(2023)
Article
Marine & Freshwater Biology
Callum Edwards, Sarah McSweeney, Barbara J. Downes
Summary: Intermittently Open/Closed Estuaries (IOCE) have entrances that close during low river flow, leading to stratification of salinity, dissolved oxygen and water temperature. These stratification changes, caused by rapid water level change and loss of oxygenation during draining, often result in fish kills. However, there is a lack of studies on the statistical relationship between environmental variables and stratification, as well as quantification of stratification changes during draining period in multiple IOCE. Our research filled these gaps by analyzing the relationships between environmental variables and stratification, and measuring physicochemical depth profiles during estuary openings in Victoria, Australia.
ESTUARINE COASTAL AND SHELF SCIENCE
(2023)