4.2 Article

Extreme Wave Events on Barrier Reefs: A Driver for Critical Regime?

Journal

JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
Volume -, Issue -, Pages 654-658

Publisher

COASTAL EDUCATION & RESEARCH FOUNDATION
DOI: 10.2112/SI95-127.1

Keywords

Barrier reefs; extreme waves; wave-induced setup; Froude number; pressure gradient

Funding

  1. EC2CO OLZO program (CNRS INSU)
  2. OLZO
  3. CROSS-REEF Action Sud (MIO IRD)
  4. ANR project MORHOC'H [ANR-13-ASTR-0007]
  5. Noumea IRD center
  6. GLADYS group
  7. ESA under the Sea State CCI project

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This paper describes the hydrodynamic regimes reached over barrier reefs during extreme wave events. The study is based on a combined approach relying, on one hand, on an extensive in-situ experiment over the Ouano reef-lagoon system, New Caledonia and, on the other hand, on wave-resolving numerical modeling.

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