Journal
MICROCHEMICAL JOURNAL
Volume 147, Issue -, Pages 469-477Publisher
ELSEVIER SCIENCE BV
DOI: 10.1016/j.microc.2019.03.059
Keywords
Bioactive compounds; Cosmeceuticals; Bioactive properties; Microencapsulation; Controlled release
Categories
Funding
- Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT, Portugal)
- FEDER under Programme PT2020 [UID/AGR/00690/2019]
- Associate Laboratory LSRE-LCM - national funds through FCT/MCTES (PIDDAC) [UID/EQU/50020/2019]
- FCT [SFRH/BPD/101413/2014]
- FEDER-Interreg Espana-Portugal programme [0377_Iberphenol_6_E]
- European Structural and Investment Funds (FEEI) through the Regional Operational Program North 2020, within the scope of Project Mobilizador ValorNatural(R)
- European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD), through the Rural Development Program (PDR2020), within the scope of Project MicoCoating [PDR2020-101-031472]
- Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia [SFRH/BPD/101413/2014] Funding Source: FCT
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The global cosmetic industry is constantly searching for new ingredients with multifunctional properties. In this context, phenolic compounds (p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric, and protocatechuic acids), cinnamic acid and ergosterol were evaluated for their anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities, and thereafter microencapsulated by the atomization/coagulation technique. After characterization (morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency), the microencapsulated compounds were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance evaluated comparatively with the use of the free forms. The cosmeceutical formulations were checked regarding the presence of the bioactive compounds by HPLC-DAD, and for their physicochemical properties (colour and pH). The obtained results demonstrated the anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities of the individual compounds that, after incorporation, have shown a decreasing pattern along time. On the contrary, the formulations incorporating the microencapsulated bioactive compounds gave rise to a gradual release, ensuring bioactivity maintenance. These results underline the advantage of using microencapsulation to preserve and ensure the controlled release of bioactive species in cosmeceutical formulations.
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