Article
Engineering, Ocean
Jun Zhu, Fengyan Shi, Feng Cai, Qing Wang, Hongshuai Qi, Chao Zhan, Jianhui Liu, Gen Liu, Gang Lei
Summary: The study simulated the beach erosion processes of two neighboring beaches using a numerical model and found significant effects of berm height on beach profile changes.
APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Weilun Chen, Jun Kong, Jun Wang, Chengji Shen, Zhaoyang Luo
Summary: Beach recovery refers to the natural restoration of beach material and coastal morphology after storm events, which is a common process globally. However, the impact of beach recovery on salinity distribution and solute transport in unconfined coastal aquifers is not well understood. This study used numerical modeling to examine the changes in salinity distribution in tidally influenced aquifers in response to beach recovery.
HYDROGEOLOGY JOURNAL
(2023)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Paul M. Bayle, Daniel C. Conley, Gerd Masselink, Emily Gulson, Isabel Kelly, Rafael Almar, Ian L. Turner, Tom E. Baldock, Tomas Beuzen, Robert T. McCall, Huub Rijper, Ad Reniers, Peter Troch, David Gallach-Sanchez, Alan J. Hunter, Oscar Bryan, Gwyn Hennessey, Peter Ganderton, Marion Tissier, Matthias Kudella, Stefan Schimmels
Summary: High quality laboratory measurements of nearshore waves and morphology change are crucial for understanding coastal processes. The DynaRev experiment studied sandy beach response to water level rise and wave conditions with and without a dynamic cobble berm revetment, using a large array of instrumentation to capture wave transformation, beach profile change, and detailed hydro and morphodynamic measurements.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Gen Liu, Hongshuai Qi, Feng Cai, Jun Zhu, Gang Lei, Jianhui Liu, Shaohua Zhao, Chao Cao
Summary: This study examined the morphological evolution of beach scarps at a nourished beach in a low-energy and micro-tidal environment, revealing that beach scarps were extensively developed after nourishment and gradually migrated landward. The first post-nourishment severe storm completely removed the scarps, which did not reoccur despite subsequent energetic storms. This highlights the key role of the first post-nourishment storm in the evolution of beach scarps at low-energy and micro-tidal nourished beaches.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Correction
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Paul M. Bayle, Daniel C. Conley, Gerd Masselink, Emily Gulson, Isabel Kelly, Rafael Almar, Ian L. Turner, Tom E. Baldock, Tomas Beuzen, Robert T. McCall, Huub Rijper, Ad Reniers, Peter Troch, David Gallach-Sanchez, Alan J. Hunter, Oscar Bryan, Gwyn Hennessey, Peter Ganderton, Marion Tissier, Matthias Kudella, Stefan Schimmels
Summary: A correction to this paper has been published.
Article
Geography, Physical
Aikaterini Konstantinou, Christopher Stokes, Gerd Masselink, Timothy Scott
Summary: Through studying 23 sites along the southwest coast of England, it was found that beaches can be classified into four response types after extreme storm events, which show spatial and temporal patterns in post-storm recovery.
Article
Engineering, Marine
Carla Labarthe, Bruno Castelle, Vincent Marieu, Thierry Garlan, Stephane Bujan
Summary: In this study, a state-of-the-art equilibrium model was used to investigate the variability of beach slope at the high-energy sandy beach of Truc Vert, southwest France, on time scales ranging from days to years. The results showed that beach slope exhibited an equilibrium response with contrasting behaviors along different areas of the beach profile, which were enforced by the dynamics of the berm developed from winter to early autumn.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Diogo Mendes, Joaquim Pais-Barbosa, Paulo Baptista, Paulo A. Silva, Cristina Bernardes, Celso Pinto
Summary: The study analyzed topographic and bathymetric data to assess the impact of shoreface nourishment on adjacent beaches in Aveiro, Portugal. The results showed that the movement of the nourishment had an effect on beach volume, but the shoreline proxy displayed highly variable displacement in both time and space.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Paul M. Bayle, Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Kevin Martins, George M. Kaminsky, Heather M. Weiner, David Cottrell
Summary: Dynamic cobble berm revetments are a promising soft engineering technique for protecting sandy coastlines. The revetment at North Cove in Washington, USA, was monitored for a nine-day period, revealing rapid reshaping under energetic conditions. Extreme fluxes mainly occurred in the swash zone with a depth of 0.15-0.45 m, and deeper swashes only occurred in zones inundated more than 50% of the time.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Civil
E. Pellon, I Aniel-Quiroga, M. Gonzalez, R. Medina, C. Vidal
Summary: Beach accretion is the natural mechanism for dry beaches to recover. Human response to climate change and the marine climate increase beach erosion and hinder full recovery. Beach nourishment and beach scraping are used worldwide to fight coastal erosion in an environmentally friendly manner.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Paul M. Bayle, George M. Kaminsky, Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Heather M. Weiner, David Cottrell
Summary: The study examined the application of dynamic cobble berm revetments in North Cove, WA, USA, finding that they exhibited dynamic stability and the ability to quickly reshape during a spring tidal cycle. Despite being effective in protecting sandy beaches and hinterlands, the revetments experienced volume reduction and localized cobble transport due to significant wave height and high water levels. Additionally, the behavior of cobble berm revetments was found to be influenced by variations in the cobble-sand matrix.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Tom E. Baldock, Paul M. Bayle, Ollie Foss, Luis P. Almeida, Stefan Schimmels
Summary: The development of coastal regions and rising sea levels have increased the risk of coastal flooding. Traditional methods for measuring wave overtopping are not suitable for dynamically stable coastal protection structures. This study explores the potential use of 2D laser scanners to remotely sense the flow volumes overtopping a porous dynamic revetment and proposes two analysis methods to estimate the overtopping volumes.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Caio Eadi Stringari, Hannah E. Power
Summary: Understanding swash zone dynamics is crucial for coastal management, as swash motions play a key role in driving changes in beach morphology through sediment exchanges. This study develops novel descriptors for swash motions by combining field data and statistical modeling, showing that the probability distribution functions of certain parameters are inherently multimodal and best modeled using Gaussian mixtures. Results indicate that offshore and surf zone dynamics drive swash zone dynamics, suggesting unsaturated swash conditions. The methods and results developed in this study could potentially aid in the development of improved swash zone models for coastal managers in the future.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Mark A. Barrett, Kristen Nelson Sella
Summary: Light pollution caused by poorly directed artificial lighting has increased globally in recent years. Coastal areas are often managed for human values, leading to trimming of dune vegetation that may increase artificial light exposure on marine turtle nesting beaches. Viewshed models were used to analyze the impact of reducing dune vegetation height on the amount of artificial light reaching the nesting areas. The study found that taller vegetation profiles effectively reduced potential lighting exposure, but even the tallest modeled vegetation could not block lights from some tall buildings.
Article
Chemistry, Multidisciplinary
Charlie S. Bristow, Lucy Buck, Maria Inggrid
Summary: Dungeness is a large shingle feature on the south coast of England, containing hundreds of beach ridges and two nuclear power stations built in the 1960s. Southwest waves dominate the area, leading to erosion on the southwest side of Dungeness and accretion on the east side. Analysis using historic images, GPR, and Lidar reveals changes in beach accretion and ridge patterns over the past 80 years.
APPLIED SCIENCES-BASEL
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Multidisciplinary
Valentina Macchiarulo, Pietro Milillo, Chris Blenkinsopp, Giorgia Giardina
Summary: Ageing stock and extreme weather events pose a threat to the safety of infrastructure networks. Insufficient funding for infrastructure management hinders systematic inspections, potentially leading to unnoticed distress and catastrophic failures. Synthetic Aperture Radar Interferometry (InSAR) has been proven to accurately detect surface deformations of different assets, offering a cost-effective and near-real-time monitoring tool. However, the large amount of data provided by InSAR requires automated integration with infrastructure inventories. This paper presents a new methodology that automates the integration of InSAR measurements and Geographic Information System-infrastructure inventories to detect potential warnings in extensive transport networks.
STRUCTURAL HEALTH MONITORING-AN INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Tom E. Baldock, Paul M. Bayle, Ollie Foss, Luis P. Almeida, Stefan Schimmels
Summary: The development of coastal regions and rising sea levels have increased the risk of coastal flooding. Traditional methods for measuring wave overtopping are not suitable for dynamically stable coastal protection structures. This study explores the potential use of 2D laser scanners to remotely sense the flow volumes overtopping a porous dynamic revetment and proposes two analysis methods to estimate the overtopping volumes.
Article
Engineering, Civil
T. Chataigner, M. L. Yates, N. Le Dantec, M. D. Harley, K. D. Splinter, N. Goutal
Summary: The sensitivity of a one-line longshore shoreline change model to incident wave direction was evaluated, with corrections made to accurately reproduce shoreline planform shape by adjusting wave angle bias. The study also investigated the model's sensitivity to errors in mean wave direction, highlighting the importance of considering uncertainties in wave model estimates when simulating longshore coastline changes.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Civil
C. E. Blenkinsopp, P. M. Bayle, K. Martins, O. W. Foss, L-P Almeida, G. M. Kaminsky, S. Schimmels, H. Matsumoto
Summary: The effects of climate change, sea level rise, and overpopulation are causing increasing stress on coastal regions. This paper presents a new methodology for predicting wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments, based on high-resolution measurements and insights from field and laboratory experiments.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Computer Science, Interdisciplinary Applications
Joshua A. Simmons, Kristen D. Splinter
Summary: This study used four different models to predict storm-driven coastal erosion and tested their skill and error distributions. The machine learning model showed the best overall skill, while the weighted ensemble approach performed well in predicting large events.
ENVIRONMENTAL MODELLING & SOFTWARE
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Ana Vila-Concejo, Kristen D. Splinter, Mitchell D. Harley, Ryan Lowe, Thomas E. Fellowes, R. Jak McCarroll, Giovanni Coco
Summary: The global COVID-19 pandemic has led many countries to lockdown and travel restrictions since early 2020, but activities like Zoom seminars and podcast series have still allowed researchers to share scientific findings and build community connections.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Ian L. Turner, Mitchell D. Harley, David J. Hanslow, Michael A. Kinsela, Kristen D. Splinter
Summary: This passage discusses the experiences of coastal researchers in creating an educational resource for secondary school students, highlighting key lessons learned: 1. Seek the help of curriculum experts and STEM content creators; 2. Recognize the potential reach across a broad range of school curriculum areas; 3. Consider the audience and practical needs of teachers; 4. Provide downloadable resources for teachers' convenience; 5. Seek feedback from users to improve and generate new ideas for future versions.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Computer Science, Interdisciplinary Applications
Yarran Doherty, Mitchell D. Harley, Kilian Vos, Kristen D. Splinter
Summary: This study evaluates the use of PlanetScope cubesats for monitoring coastal change with high spatial and temporal resolution. A new toolkit called CoastSat.PlanetScope is introduced for shoreline mapping using PlanetScope imagery. The toolkit includes image coregistration, segmentation, thresholding, shoreline detection, and elevation correction. The study demonstrates an optimal shoreline accuracy of 3.5 meters for the tested coastline using specific indices and thresholding techniques. A generic elevation correction model considering tidal variability and wave setup is proposed. The study highlights the potential of using PlanetScope imagery for enhanced coastline mapping and its complementarity with existing approaches.
ENVIRONMENTAL MODELLING & SOFTWARE
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Kevin Martins, Philippe Bonneton, Olivier de Viron, Ian L. Turner, Mitchel D. Harley, Kristen Splinter
Summary: Accurately mapping the changing underwater topography in wave-breaking areas is challenging but crucial for understanding sandy beach morphodynamics. Existing linear depth-inversion algorithms face theoretical and/or technical issues in the surf zone, limiting their accuracy. In this study, we propose a new depth-inversion approach based on Boussinesq theory, which quantifies nonlinear dispersion effects in nearshore waves. Experimental results show that this approach significantly improves accuracy in the surf zone, making it a promising method for practical applications using remote sensing technologies.
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2023)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Kilian Vos, Mitchell D. D. Harley, Ian L. L. Turner, Kristen D. D. Splinter
Summary: Analysis of satellite imagery covering over 8,300 km of sandy coastline reveals that the El Nino/Southern Oscillation drives coherent patterns of beach erosion and accretion around the Pacific Rim. Approximately one-third of all transects experience significant erosion during El Nino phases, while approximately one-quarter of all transects experience significant accretion during La Nina events.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Kilian Vos, Wen Deng, Mitchell Dean Harley, Ian Lloyd Turner, Kristen Dena Marie Splinter
Summary: Sandy beaches undergo constant reshaping by waves, tides, currents, and winds. The beach face, the area between land and ocean, is crucial for coastal processes such as wave energy dissipation and sediment exchange. However, datasets of beach-face slopes remain unavailable for most coastlines worldwide. This study introduces a new dataset for the Australian coastline, derived from remote sensing, which provides beach-face slope estimates and confidence measures. The dataset offers valuable information for predicting coastal hazards in Australia.
EARTH SYSTEM SCIENCE DATA
(2022)