Article
Engineering, Marine
Tristan B. Guest, Alex E. Hay
Summary: This study utilized aeroacoustic and optical remote sensing techniques to observe the morpho-sedimentary dynamics in the swash zone of a mixed sand-gravel beach. The data showed a correlation between increases in bed level and mean grain size, as well as finer-scale structures and the migration of coarse-grained material. Close-range remote sensing techniques provided valuable insights into the dynamics of cobble-sized and sand-sized particles in the swash zone.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Kwami Serge Foga Agbetossou, Denis Worlanyo Aheto, Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng, Leo Cornelius van Rijn, Koko Zebeto Houedakor, Emmanuel Kwadzo Brempong, Folly Serge Tomety
Summary: Field measurements were conducted to determine longshore sediment transport rates at Denu Beach in Ghana. Modified versions of Kraus streamer traps were deployed to measure sediments at a distance of half the surf zone width. The study found that both the Kamphuis and van Rijn equations provided accurate estimates of sediment transport rates at Denu Beach.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Caio Eadi Stringari, Hannah E. Power
Summary: Understanding swash zone dynamics is crucial for coastal management, as swash motions play a key role in driving changes in beach morphology through sediment exchanges. This study develops novel descriptors for swash motions by combining field data and statistical modeling, showing that the probability distribution functions of certain parameters are inherently multimodal and best modeled using Gaussian mixtures. Results indicate that offshore and surf zone dynamics drive swash zone dynamics, suggesting unsaturated swash conditions. The methods and results developed in this study could potentially aid in the development of improved swash zone models for coastal managers in the future.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Bin Deng, Wen Zhang, Yu Yao, Changbo Jiang
Summary: This study investigates the hydrodynamics of bore-driven swash flows over beaches with varying slopes through laboratory experiments. The impacts of beach slope on swash hydrodynamics and the formation and evolution of vortex structures are analyzed.
FRONTIERS IN MARINE SCIENCE
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Ioannis Kazakis, Theophanis V. Karambas
Summary: This study numerically investigates the 3D hydrodynamic processes in coastal zones, such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM. The numerical scheme incorporates the initial conditions of wave propagation and absorption using the waves2Foam wave library. Turbulence closure is handled with a buoyancy modified k-omega SST model. A transport-rate formula for sediment transport is implemented to predict the sediment transport rate due to waves and currents. The results are compared with experimental data and semi-empirical expressions for wave height, longshore current, turbulence kinetic energy, and sediment transport.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
R. J. McCarroll, N. G. Valiente, M. Wiggins, T. Scott, G. Masselink
Summary: To understand how coastlines change over time in different environments, it is important to have records of beach morphologic change and concurrent hydrodynamic forcing. This study provides data from 2006 to 2021 for two contrasting macrotidal environments in southwest England, including a cross-shore dominated sandy beach and a longshore-dominated reflective gravel beach. The data includes beach profile surveys, topo-bathymetries, as well as observed and modeled wave and water levels. These data serve as a valuable resource for modeling coastal behavior not covered by other available datasets.
Article
Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences
Hassan Shafiei, Julien Chauchat, Cyrille Bonamy, Patrick Marchesiello
Summary: Modeling bar migration in the nearshore zone is crucial for predicting coastal morphology. In this study, we present a cost-effective 3D model with parameterization of wave-related bedload transport and evaluate its performance using data from a wave channel. The model successfully predicts the onshore and offshore migration of a sandbar under different conditions.
Review
Engineering, Marine
Piera Fischione, Davide Pasquali, Daniele Celli, Carmine Di Nucci, Marcello Di Risio
Summary: Beach drainage system is a soft engineering method aimed at countering shoreline retreat. By lowering the groundwater table, the system thickens the layer of dry sand and reduces the mobilization of sediment grains. However, the effectiveness of this system remains controversial.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Ateeth Shetty, R. S. Kankara, S. Dhanalakshmi, S. Buckle, S. Subburaj
Summary: The study examines the changes in shoreline and nearshore morphology to understand the variability of littoral drift and sediment budget. Erosion is observed in the northern sector, while accretion occurs in the southern sector. Seasonal changes in nearshore morphology indicate net erosion in the northern sector and net accretion in the southern sector. Human interventions reduce the quantity of sediment gain. The dominant littoral drift is towards north from February to October, and southwards from November to January.
ENVIRONMENTAL EARTH SCIENCES
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Joost W. M. Kranenborg, Geert H. P. Campmans, Niels G. Jacobsen, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Ad J. H. M. Reniers, Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher
Summary: In this study, a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model implemented in OpenFOAM was presented for simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The model performance was evaluated by comparing with field-scale measurements of solitary waves, showing reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and sediment transport volumes. The model demonstrated the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Gregory Wilson
Summary: A model combining nearshore hydrodynamics and sediment transport has been used to study sand bar morphodynamics. The model can accurately predict sand bar migration, but perturbations in model inputs can lead to a range of predictions. The study shows that during accretive conditions, uncertainty is dominated by errors in initial conditions, while during erosive conditions, errors in sediment transport coefficients have a larger impact.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Civil
Jose Carlos Pintado-Patino, Jack A. Puleo, Douglas Krafft, Alec Torres-Freyermuth
Summary: The experimental study provides detailed measurements of swash zone hydrodynamics, sediment transport flux, and bed changes over a movable sand bed with a steep slope. It shows that sheet flow sediment dominates over suspended load during sediment transport, and the relative contribution of sheet flow decreases over time and space. The results also indicate close agreement between different approaches for estimating sediment transport in the swash zone.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Hailey Bond, Meagan Wengrove, Jack Puleo, Maro Pontiki, T. Matthew Evans, Rusty A. Feagin
Summary: This study used a laboratory experiment to simulate the erosive process of beach scarp formation and observed the changes in pressure gradients and sand erosion during scarp development. A conceptual model for scarp formation is proposed based on the observations in this study.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2023)
Article
Engineering, Ocean
B. Deng, W. Zhang, H. S. Tang, C. B. Jiang, X. J. Liu
Summary: This study experimentally investigates the hydrodynamics and sediment transport caused by dam-break waves in the swash zones of three sandy beaches. The results show that the uniformity of sand particle sizes plays a crucial role in the hydraulic behavior, bedform evolution, bedload transport, and sand particle migration.
APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Florent Birrien, Tom Baldock
Summary: An equilibrium beach profile model was developed and coupled with a parametric hydrodynamic model to provide feedback between morphology and hydrodynamics. The model was compared to laboratory profiles and showed accurate predictions for erosive and accretive conditions, with potential for improvement in linking dissipation and local transport.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Oceanography
E. King, D. C. Conley, G. Masselink, N. Leonardi, R. J. McCarroll, T. Scott, N. G. Valiente
Summary: This study focuses on the factors influencing headland bypassing on embayed coastlines and demonstrates predictability under wave-driven conditions. The bypassing rates depend mainly on headland cross-shore length, headland toe depth, and sediment coverage.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Multidisciplinary
Valentina Macchiarulo, Pietro Milillo, Chris Blenkinsopp, Giorgia Giardina
Summary: Ageing stock and extreme weather events pose a threat to the safety of infrastructure networks. Insufficient funding for infrastructure management hinders systematic inspections, potentially leading to unnoticed distress and catastrophic failures. Synthetic Aperture Radar Interferometry (InSAR) has been proven to accurately detect surface deformations of different assets, offering a cost-effective and near-real-time monitoring tool. However, the large amount of data provided by InSAR requires automated integration with infrastructure inventories. This paper presents a new methodology that automates the integration of InSAR measurements and Geographic Information System-infrastructure inventories to detect potential warnings in extensive transport networks.
STRUCTURAL HEALTH MONITORING-AN INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Tom E. Baldock, Paul M. Bayle, Ollie Foss, Luis P. Almeida, Stefan Schimmels
Summary: The development of coastal regions and rising sea levels have increased the risk of coastal flooding. Traditional methods for measuring wave overtopping are not suitable for dynamically stable coastal protection structures. This study explores the potential use of 2D laser scanners to remotely sense the flow volumes overtopping a porous dynamic revetment and proposes two analysis methods to estimate the overtopping volumes.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Valentina Macchiarulo, Pietro Milillo, Chris Blenkinsopp, Cormac Reale, Giorgia Giardina
Summary: InSAR technology offers cost-effective deformation measurements for transport infrastructure globally, aiding in monitoring and maintenance to enhance infrastructure resilience. However, its limitations must be considered when implementing.
PROCEEDINGS OF THE INSTITUTION OF CIVIL ENGINEERS-BRIDGE ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Civil
C. E. Blenkinsopp, P. M. Bayle, K. Martins, O. W. Foss, L-P Almeida, G. M. Kaminsky, S. Schimmels, H. Matsumoto
Summary: The effects of climate change, sea level rise, and overpopulation are causing increasing stress on coastal regions. This paper presents a new methodology for predicting wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments, based on high-resolution measurements and insights from field and laboratory experiments.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Tim Scott, Gerd Masselink, Christopher Stokes, Tim Poate, Adam Wooler, Steve Instance
Summary: Drowning is a leading cause of unintentional fatalities worldwide, but preventive measures such as public education and involvement of lifeguards can significantly reduce the risks, particularly on beaches. The collaboration between the UK beach lifeguarding community and the Coastal Processes Research Group at the University of Plymouth has resulted in a 15-year body of work that has helped in understanding and managing the key hazards on UK beaches. The research has contributed to beach safety management globally and highlights the importance of collaboration and evaluation in achieving research impact.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Oceanography
Ian L. Turner, Mitchell D. Harley, David J. Hanslow, Michael A. Kinsela, Kristen D. Splinter
Summary: This passage discusses the experiences of coastal researchers in creating an educational resource for secondary school students, highlighting key lessons learned: 1. Seek the help of curriculum experts and STEM content creators; 2. Recognize the potential reach across a broad range of school curriculum areas; 3. Consider the audience and practical needs of teachers; 4. Provide downloadable resources for teachers' convenience; 5. Seek feedback from users to improve and generate new ideas for future versions.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Gerd Masselink, Sue Brooks, Tim Poate, Christopher Stokes, Tim Scott
Summary: This study investigates the dynamics of 25 coastal dune systems along the north coast of SW England and compares observed behavior with hindcasted and forecasted dune retreat rates. The study shows that most dune systems are retreating, with rates higher than predicted. It suggests that sea-level rise alone may not be enough to explain the observed retreat, and increased storminess may also play a role.
Article
Environmental Sciences
E. Slavin, D. J. Wain, L. D. Bryant, M. Amani, R. G. Perkins, C. Blenkinsopp, S. Simoncelli, S. Hurley
Summary: Top-down surface mixers are effective in preventing stratification, controlling cyanobacteria, and limiting sediment release of soluble manganese in drinking water reservoirs. However, their limited range of influence leaves a majority of the reservoir exposed to potential issues such as stratification, anoxia, and internal loading of inorganic nutrients and metals.
WATER RESOURCES RESEARCH
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Kevin Martins, Philippe Bonneton, Olivier de Viron, Ian L. Turner, Mitchel D. Harley, Kristen Splinter
Summary: Accurately mapping the changing underwater topography in wave-breaking areas is challenging but crucial for understanding sandy beach morphodynamics. Existing linear depth-inversion algorithms face theoretical and/or technical issues in the surf zone, limiting their accuracy. In this study, we propose a new depth-inversion approach based on Boussinesq theory, which quantifies nonlinear dispersion effects in nearshore waves. Experimental results show that this approach significantly improves accuracy in the surf zone, making it a promising method for practical applications using remote sensing technologies.
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2023)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Kilian Vos, Mitchell D. D. Harley, Ian L. L. Turner, Kristen D. D. Splinter
Summary: Analysis of satellite imagery covering over 8,300 km of sandy coastline reveals that the El Nino/Southern Oscillation drives coherent patterns of beach erosion and accretion around the Pacific Rim. Approximately one-third of all transects experience significant erosion during El Nino phases, while approximately one-quarter of all transects experience significant accretion during La Nina events.
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
R. J. McCarroll, N. G. Valiente, M. Wiggins, T. Scott, G. Masselink
Summary: To understand how coastlines change over time in different environments, it is important to have records of beach morphologic change and concurrent hydrodynamic forcing. This study provides data from 2006 to 2021 for two contrasting macrotidal environments in southwest England, including a cross-shore dominated sandy beach and a longshore-dominated reflective gravel beach. The data includes beach profile surveys, topo-bathymetries, as well as observed and modeled wave and water levels. These data serve as a valuable resource for modeling coastal behavior not covered by other available datasets.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Aikaterini Konstantinou, Tim Scott, Gerd Masselink, Kit Stokes, Daniel Conley, Bruno Castelle
Summary: Earth observation coupled with novel image analysis techniques provides a unique and powerful tool for studying shoreline change at different scales. However, satellite-derived shoreline (SDS) data is limited in certain areas and affected by uncertainties related to environmental factors. We used topographic surveys at two macrotidal sites in the UK to investigate the influence of tidal elevation and wave action on SDS accuracy. Our results show that applying appropriate water level corrections can significantly improve SDS accuracy and that the optimal approach depends on the beach type and shoreline translation method used.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Mitchell D. Harley, Gerd Masselink, Amaia Ruiz de Alegria-Arzaburu, Nieves G. Valiente, Tim Scott
Summary: High-resolution morphology data from Australia, the UK and Mexico shows that episodic coastal sediment deposition during extreme storms can offset projected shoreline retreat caused by sea level rise. Extreme storms, although causing erosion, can also contribute positively to the sediment budget by exchanging sediment between different areas, mitigating the impacts of sea level rise.
COMMUNICATIONS EARTH & ENVIRONMENT
(2022)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Kilian Vos, Wen Deng, Mitchell Dean Harley, Ian Lloyd Turner, Kristen Dena Marie Splinter
Summary: Sandy beaches undergo constant reshaping by waves, tides, currents, and winds. The beach face, the area between land and ocean, is crucial for coastal processes such as wave energy dissipation and sediment exchange. However, datasets of beach-face slopes remain unavailable for most coastlines worldwide. This study introduces a new dataset for the Australian coastline, derived from remote sensing, which provides beach-face slope estimates and confidence measures. The dataset offers valuable information for predicting coastal hazards in Australia.
EARTH SYSTEM SCIENCE DATA
(2022)