4.2 Article

Open coast monsoonal beach dynamics

Journal

JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
Volume 24, Issue 1, Pages 1-+

Publisher

COASTAL EDUCATION & RESEARCH FOUNDATION
DOI: 10.2112/04-0289.1

Keywords

longshore sediment transport; cross-shore sediment transport; black sand; beach erosion; tropical beaches; beach profiles; hydrodynamic and sediment transport modelling

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On the coast of Kerala, southwest India, oceanographic measurements were made at the beach, in the surf zone region, and on the inner shelf and then were combined with mechanism-focussed numerical modelling. The goal was to investigate the sedimentary dynamics of an open coast monsoonal beach. A closed sedimentary circulatory system (here described as a step-ladder) was identified. Strong annual cycles were observed in waves, winds, and currents. Regional-scale dynamic sediment equilibrium is maintained by an annual net northerly sediment flux in the nearshore, driven by wave-induced currents. This is balanced by a net southerly flux on the inner shelf, but driven instead by wind-induced currents that transport the wave-induced suspended sediment. The two counterdirectional sedimentary pathways are linked by cross-shore bridging transport. A clear association between the annual beach erosion and accretion patterns and the cross-shore direction of the near-bed bridging currents on the inner shelf was recorded and was associated with seasonal and shorter oscillations in the cross-shore component of wind, leading to inner shelf downwelling during the onshore wind periods and upwelling at other times. This occurs in synchrony with wave-induced beach erosion during the stormy onshore wind periods and accretion during the periods of narrow-banded swell and offshore winds, thereby delivering the sediment to or from the beach to be further transported on/offshore by shelf currents. Overall, the synchronous and supportive behaviour of the physical factors results in an unusual sedimentary equilibrium that explains how a strong net littoral drift can be sustained when supplies of nearshore feeder sands are absent.

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