Article
Engineering, Civil
J. Garcia-Maribona, J. L. Lara, M. Maza, I. J. Losada
Summary: A new numerical model, IH2VOF-SED, has been developed for cross-shore beach profile evolution, which can accurately simulate sediment transport induced by breaking waves and reduce computational cost.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Oceanography
J. L. Garzon, T. A. Plomaritis, O. Ferreira
Summary: Early warning systems (EWSs) for coastal erosion are cost-effective tools for risk reduction. The selection of pre-storm beach morphology and the definition of storm characteristics can affect the reliability of EWSs. XBeach simulations were used to assess uncertainties in beach-dune erosion related to storm severity and duration and pre-storm morphology. The experiments revealed that uncertainties in eroded volume, berm retreat, and dune retreat vary based on the variability of pre-storm morphology and storm duration.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2023)
Article
Oceanography
Sebastian Escobar, Qilong Bi, Michael Fettweis, Samor Wongsoredjo, Jaak Monbaliu, Erik Toorman
Summary: A dynamic 2DH parameterization for flocculation of cohesive sediments is proposed based on Winterwerp's kinetic model. It can achieve a realistic representation of the suspended sediment field by considering flocculation and its dependence on advection, turbulent diffusion, and turbulent shear. Evaluation with a sand-mud model of the Belgian Coast and the Western Scheldt shows that the model can reproduce known sediment transport patterns and has similar extent and shape of coastal sediment plumes to observed SPM maps from the PROBA-V satellite. Therefore, the proposed flocculation model has added value in improving sediment transport calculations in coastal areas.
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
M. Pontiki, J. A. Puleo, H. Bond, M. Wengrove, R. A. Feagin, T. J. Hsu, T. Huff
Summary: This study explores the response of a near-prototype berm to scaled storm conditions and finds that berm overtopping and offshore sediment transport are key processes causing berm erosion. Additionally, the formation of offshore sand bars attenuates subsequent wave energy and inhibits inundation of the backshore. Sediment transport in the swash zone is predominantly influenced by infragravity motions, while sediment transport in the inner-sur zone is relatively more influenced by incident-band motions.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2023)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
M. Pontiki, J. A. Puleo, H. Bond, M. Wengrove, R. A. Feagin, T. -j. Hsu, T. Huff
Summary: This study investigates the response of sand berms to storm conditions. Results indicate that overtopping and offshore sediment transport are key processes causing berm erosion. The formation of offshore sand bars attenuates subsequent wave energy and inhibits inundation of the backshore.
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-EARTH SURFACE
(2023)
Article
Geography, Physical
Katherine N. Braun, C. Robin Mattheus, Ethan J. Theuerkauf
Summary: The study shows that while large wood plays a role in beach geomorphology, its impact on beach evolutionary trajectories is limited, primarily influenced by factors such as antecedent topography and coastal habitat elevation.
Article
Engineering, Civil
Nicholas Cohn, Katherine L. Brodie, Bradley Johnson, Margaret L. Palmsten
Summary: In Fall 2015, a large, low-pressure Nor'easter storm and Hurricane Joaquin caused sustained elevated wave and water level conditions along the southeastern Atlantic coast of the United States for multiple weeks. Sea level anomalies exceeding 1 m and offshore wave heights up to 4 m were recorded, resulting in highly variable morphologic changes to the dune over short spatial scales.
COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Jairo E. Cueto, Luis J. Otero Diaz, Silvio R. Ospino-Ortiz, Alec Torres-Freyermuth
Summary: This study investigates the role of morphodynamic changes in the flooding of a micro-tidal dissipative beach for both current and sea level rise scenarios. It suggests that ignoring beach morphodynamics can lead to an underestimation of flooding. The study also finds that beach erosion and flooding are intensified by sea level rise, especially when extreme events occur simultaneously with high tides.
NATURAL HAZARDS AND EARTH SYSTEM SCIENCES
(2022)
Article
Computer Science, Interdisciplinary Applications
Pablo Tassi, Thomas Benson, Matthieu Delinares, Jacques Fontaine, Nicolas Huybrechts, Rebekka Kopmann, Sara Pavan, Chi-Tuan Pham, Florent Taccone, Regis Walther
Summary: In rivers, coastal seas and transitional waters, sediment transport processes are influenced by various factors and their interactions, which are dynamic in time and space. The flow dynamics within these natural systems influence the erosion and deposition patterns of bed sediments, shaping the bottom morphology. The GAiA module within the TELEMAC-MASCARET system provides a code structure for solving sediment transport and morphological evolution problems, efficiently managing the spatial and temporal variability of sediment size classes, properties, and transport modes.
ENVIRONMENTAL MODELLING & SOFTWARE
(2023)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Jonathan A. Warrick, Kilian Vos, Amy E. East, Sean Vitousek
Summary: Wildfires and floods have significant impacts on coastal sediment budgets, and these impacts may increase with time considering projected intensification of wildfires and extreme rain events under global warming.
SCIENTIFIC REPORTS
(2022)
Review
Geochemistry & Geophysics
Christopher R. Sherwood, Ap van Dongeren, James Doyle, Christie A. Hegermiller, Tian-Jian Hsu, Tarandeep S. Kalra, Maitane Olabarrieta, Allison M. Penko, Yashar Rafati, Dano Roelvink, Marlies van der Lugt, Jay Veeramony, John C. Warner
Summary: This review focuses on recent advancements in process-based numerical models of extreme storms' impact on sandy coasts. These models, driven by larger-scale meteorology and hydrodynamics models, simulate various processes across the Sallenger storm-impact scale.
ANNUAL REVIEW OF MARINE SCIENCE
(2022)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Chun-Hung Pao, Jia-Lin Chen, Shih-Feng Su, Yu-Ching Huang, Wen-Hsin Huang, Chien-Hung Kuo
Summary: The study deployed ADCPs and turbidity meters at the mouth of the Zengwen river to study sediment transport mechanisms, showing a dominant role of bathymetry and wave-induced currents. The model used a TVD finite volume scheme coupled with a wave-spectrum model to accurately reproduce water levels, waves, and currents at the study site, highlighting the impact of coastal structures on morphological evolution.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Marine
Sulki Kim, Sungyeol Chang, Sungwon Shin, Kideok Do, Inho Kim
Summary: Continuous monitoring of shorelines' topographical characteristics is crucial for effective coastal management. Studies have used aerial photogrammetry with unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) to capture 3D models of target areas for analysis. However, this technique requires ground-control points (GCPs) which could affect image quality. This study introduces a real-time kinematics-global navigation satellite system (RTK-GNSS) UAV that requires fewer GCPs. Evaluation showed high positional accuracy, making this method suitable for periodic coastal monitoring.
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
(2023)
Article
Environmental Studies
Sylvia P. Villacis Lozada, Gillian L. Rapson
Summary: Dunelands are dynamic environments that pose challenges for conservation and management. In New Zealand's Manawatu coast, there are temporary freshwater wetlands that support rare turf plants. Analysis of historical aerial photos revealed coastline movement, wetland distance from the coast, and wetland movements over time.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Kyu-Tae Shim, Kyu-Han Kim
Summary: This study examined the effects of using nourishment sand with larger particle diameters to perform beach nourishment on an eroding beach. A physical model test was conducted to investigate sediment transport mechanisms under wind and wave conditions. The results showed that while larger particle diameters attenuated sediment transport, the reduction in topographical changes was not always proportional to the increase in particle diameter.
Article
Engineering, Ocean
Thomas Hasiotis, Iason-Zois Gazis, Marianthi Anastasatou, Evangelia Manoutsoglou, Adonis F. Velegrakis, Vasileios Kapsimalis, Aikaterini Karditsa, Michael Stamatakis
Summary: This study reveals the potential of exploitable marine aggregate deposits around Lesvos Island for beach replenishment purposes. The findings show that there are sands suitable for nourishment schemes, which can be used for eroded beaches or artificial beach development. Prioritization of specific areas for detailed surveying is recommended, taking into account environmental constraints and human activities.
MARINE GEORESOURCES & GEOTECHNOLOGY
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Multidisciplinary
Christos Makris, Yannis Androulidakis, Theofanis Karambas, Andreas Papadimitriou, Anastasios Metallinos, Yiannis Kontos, Vassilis Baltikas, Michalis Chondros, Yannis Krestenitis, Vicky Tsoukala, Constantine Memos
Summary: This paper presents recent developments in three robust numerical models for simulating wave field evolution and hydrodynamic circulation in gulfs and coastal areas, integrated into a software suite for reliable sea state forecasts at important ports worldwide. The models support vessel approach procedures, derive input data from global or regional forecasts, and include high-resolution storm surge, wave propagation, and wave model for port basins. Pilot forecast implementations in the Mediterranean Sea and eight selected harbours are discussed.
APPLIED MATHEMATICAL MODELLING
(2021)
Article
Engineering, Multidisciplinary
Achilleas G. Samaras, Theophanis V. Karambas
Summary: This study presents simulation results on the generation and propagation of shipborne waves using an advanced nonlinear dispersive wave model based on higher order Boussinesq-type equations. The model is tested against analytical solutions and laboratory experiments, demonstrating its accuracy and applicability in practical coastal engineering applications.
APPLIED MATHEMATICAL MODELLING
(2021)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Rafael Almar, Roshanka Ranasinghe, Erwin W. J. Bergsma, Harold Diaz, Angelique Melet, Fabrice Papa, Michalis Vousdoukas, Panagiotis Athanasiou, Olusegun Dada, Luis Pedro Almeida, Elodie Kestenare
Summary: The study finds that global coastal overtopping has increased by over 50% in the last two decades, and under a RCP 8.5 scenario this could increase up to 50 times by 2100 compared to today.
NATURE COMMUNICATIONS
(2021)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Claudia Tebaldi, Roshanka Ranasinghe, Michalis Vousdoukas, D. J. Rasmussen, Ben Vega-Westhoff, Ebru Kirezci, Robert E. Kopp, Ryan Sriver, Lorenzo Mentaschi
Summary: This study used a multimethod approach to describe changes in extreme sea levels driven by changes in mean sea level associated with global warming levels from 1.5 to 5 degrees C. The findings suggest that by 2100, over 50% of the locations considered will experience present-day 100-yr extreme-sea-level events at least once a year, even under 1.5 degrees C of global warming. The tropics appear to be more sensitive to these changes compared to Northern high latitudes.
NATURE CLIMATE CHANGE
(2021)
Article
Energy & Fuels
Theofanis Karambas, Eva Loukogeorgaki
Summary: This work presents a numerical model for simulating the interaction between nonlinear wave and heaving cylinder. The model is capable of describing fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear wave propagation in any water depth. The interaction between the wave and cylinder is considered by simultaneously solving an elliptic equation to determine the fluid pressure exerted on the floating body. The heave motion of the partially immersed cylinder under wave actions is obtained by numerically solving the body's equation of motion based on Newton's law. The developed model is applied to various scenarios and compared with a frequency domain numerical model based on the boundary integral equation method to validate the results.
Article
Environmental Sciences
Michalis Vousdoukas, Joanne Clarke, Roshanka Ranasinghe, Lena Reimann, Nadia Khalaf, Trang Minh Duong, Birgitt Ouweneel, Salma Sabour, Carley E. Iles, Christopher H. Trisos, Luc Feyen, Lorenzo Mentaschi, Nicholas P. Simpson
Summary: Many African heritage sites are currently at risk from rising sea levels, which could more than triple under high emissions scenarios. Mitigating emissions can reduce the number of highly exposed sites. These findings highlight the urgent need for increased climate change adaptation for heritage sites in Africa, including governance, vulnerability assessments, monitoring, and protection strategies.
NATURE CLIMATE CHANGE
(2022)
Article
Water Resources
Nada Joumar, Soumaya Nabih, Antonis Chatzipavlis, Adonis Velegrakis, Thomas Hasiotis, Ourania Tzoraki, Jamal Eddine Stitou El Messari, Lahcen Benaabidate
Summary: This study utilized the SWAT model to simulate the hydrological behavior of an adjacent intermittent river in Northern Crete and combined it with optical data analysis from a monitoring system. The results successfully classified and identified coastal plumes, validating the accuracy of the SWAT model and suggesting room for improvement with the collection of ground truth data.
Article
Green & Sustainable Science & Technology
Michalis I. Vousdoukas, Panagiotis Athanasiou, Alessio Giardino, Lorenzo Mentaschi, Alessandro Stocchino, Robert E. Kopp, Pelayo Menendez, Michael W. Beck, Roshanka Ranasinghe, Luc Feyen
Summary: Climate change-induced sea-level rise and coastal extremes pose serious threats to Small Island Developing States (SIDS). This study provides a coastal flood risk assessment for SIDS globally and reveals the need for timely adaptation.
NATURE SUSTAINABILITY
(2023)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Jeremy Carlot, Michalis Vousdoukas, Alessio Rovere, Theofanis Karambas, Hunter S. Lenihan, Mohsen Kayal, Mehdi Adjeroud, Gonzalo Perez-Rosales, Laetitia Hedouin, Valeriano Parravicini
Summary: Coral reefs provide natural coastal protection by reducing the energy of incoming waves. Combining coral disturbance-recovery observations with hydrodynamic models, this study quantifies how structural complexity dissipates wave energy. The findings reveal that halving the structural complexity of healthy coral reefs leads to a 50-fold increase in extreme wave run-up heights that occur once in a 100-year period, posing threats to reef-backed coastal communities in terms of increased waves, erosion, and flooding.
SCIENTIFIC REPORTS
(2023)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Panagiotis Athanasiou, Ap van Dongeren, Alessio Giardino, Michalis Vousdoukas, Jose A. A. Antolinez, Roshanka Ranasinghe
Summary: A meta-model based on artificial neural networks (ANNs) is designed to predict dune erosion volume (DEV) at the Dutch coast, which can provide faster and accurate predictions compared to process-based models. The meta-model can be integrated into early warning systems and facilitate investigations on dune response in large coastal areas.
NATURAL HAZARDS AND EARTH SYSTEM SCIENCES
(2022)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Pascal Peduzzi, Adonis Velegrakis, Bruno Chatenoux, Marisol Estrella, Theofanis Karambas
Summary: This study investigates the trend of beach erosion in the Negril region of Jamaica and quantifies the role of coastal and marine ecosystems in mitigating this erosion. The study finds that wider coral reefs and seagrass meadows can reduce beach erosion.
Review
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Piero Lionello, David Barriopedro, Christian Ferrarin, Robert J. Nicholls, Mirko Orli, Fabio Raicich, Marco Reale, Georg Umgiesser, Michalis Vousdoukas, Davide Zanchettin
Summary: Floods in the Venice city center are caused by a combination of factors including astronomical tides, seiches, and atmospheric fluctuations. The most intense events historically have been triggered by storm surges from the sirocco winds, with the highest frequency from November to March. Future increases in the duration and intensity of Venice floods will be driven by the regional relative mean sea level rise, which will compensate for the projected decrease in marine storminess. The wide range of future extreme water height increases largely reflects uncertainties in mass contributions from Antarctica and Greenland ice sheet melting.
NATURAL HAZARDS AND EARTH SYSTEM SCIENCES
(2021)
Article
Oceanography
Alyssa M. LeClaire, Eric N. Powell, Roger Mann, Kathleen M. Hemeon, Sara M. Pace, Vincent Saba, Hubert du Pontavice, Jillian R. Sower
Summary: Arctica islandica is an important species for recording climate change on the U.S. northeast continental shelf, and its growth rates show synchronous changes with cold and warm climatic periods. This study finds that A. islandica near the Delmarva Peninsula had higher growth rates during cold periods, possibly due to increased food supply in shallower water. The range recession of this species is a long-term process determined by the survivorship of older individuals.
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
(2024)
