Article
Mechanics
Thomas Zdyrski, Falk Feddersen
Summary: Wave shape, influenced by wind, can vary in shallow water depending on wind speed and direction. Onshore wind increases wave energy and skewness while decreasing asymmetry, with the opposite effect seen for offshore wind.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2021)
Article
Mechanics
Benjamin K. K. Smeltzer, Olav Romcke, R. Jason Hearst, Simen A. Ellingsen
Summary: When surface waves interact with ambient turbulence, turbulent eddies get redirected, intensified and periodically stretched and compressed, while the waves suffer directional scattering. In this study conducted at the Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU), the mutual interactions between surface waves and turbulence were experimentally studied in a water channel laboratory. The experimental results showed that there was a strong enhancement of streamwise vorticity near the surface, in agreement with theory, and that the directional wave spectrum broadened with increasing propagation distance.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2023)
Article
Oceanography
Leonel Romero, Kabir Lubana
Summary: This study investigates the azimuthal bimodality of the wind-wave spectrum and compares different methods of wind input and dissipation parameterizations. The results show that a directionally narrow spectral energy dissipation method can significantly improve the directional distribution of the wind-wave spectrum and has important implications for the prediction of mean square slopes and the generation of microseisms.
JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY
(2022)
Article
Mechanics
Rui Cao, E. M. Padilla, A. H. Callaghan
Summary: An experimental investigation was conducted on two-dimensional dispersive breaking waves in a laboratory. The study focused on the effect of bandwidth on wave energetics, including spectral energy evolution, group velocity, energy dissipation, and breaking strength parameter.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2023)
Article
Mechanics
Jiarong Wu, Stephane Popinet, Luc Deike
Summary: The statistics of breaking wave fields are studied using a novel multi-layer framework, which extends the single-layer Saint-Venant system to a multi-layer and non-hydrostatic formulation of the Navier-Stokes equations. Phase-resolved surface wave fields with strong nonlinearities, including directional wave breaking and rotational flow motion, are simulated without surface overturning. The kinematics of wave breaking are extracted by identifying breaking fronts and their speed, and a scaling based on root-mean-square slope and peak wave phase speed is shown to accurately describe the modelled breaking distributions.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2023)
Article
Mechanics
James T. Sinnis, Laurent Grare, Luc Lenain, Nick Pizzo
Summary: This paper presents laboratory measurements of surface transport due to non-breaking and breaking deep-water focusing surface wave packets, demonstrating a strong dependence of the transport on the wave packet bandwidth. A model for the horizontal length scale of the breaking region is proposed, which incorporates the bandwidth, central frequency, and other relevant factors, and is validated with both archived and new laboratory data. Furthermore, modifications to the model of the energy dissipation rate are suggested to account for differing trends caused by the bandwidth in the available laboratory data.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2021)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Qianru Niu, Yanqing Feng
Summary: The study investigated wind-wave interactions induced by typhoons in the South China Sea through observational data analysis, proposing an empirical model and simplified functions. However, it highlighted the potential misalignment in wave characteristics due to swells contamination from slow translation speeds and short/long radial distances from typhoon centers, emphasizing the importance of considering typhoon structures in assessing swell influences.
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2021)
Article
Mechanics
Peder A. Tyvand, Camilla Mulstad, Michael Bestehorn
Summary: The study investigates a nonlinear Cauchy-Poisson problem with impulsive surface forcing both theoretically and numerically. It explores the effects of different pressure impulses on the subsequent inviscid free-surface flow, finding that only relatively weak pressure impulses result in oscillatory waves while pressure impulses exceeding one gravitational unit lead to surface breaking before a full gravitational oscillation is completed.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2021)
Article
Mechanics
Peder A. Tyvand, Camilla Mulstad, Michael Bestehorn
Summary: A fully nonlinear Cauchy-Poisson problem is investigated analytically by a small-time expansion technique. The problem involves an inviscid incompressible fluid layer with an initially horizontal surface, forced into motion by an impulsive surface pressure. A comparison is made between the Lagrangian solution to second order and other solution procedures for the same nonlinear problem. Good agreement is found between the Lagrangian and Eulerian solutions, which diverge abruptly at a certain point.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2021)
Article
Mechanics
Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Pieter B. Smit, R. T. Guza
Summary: In this study, a fully nonlinear non-dispersive energy balance model is derived to investigate the nearshore dynamics of infragravity waves. The new model reveals that the spatial gradients in infragravity energy flux are almost completely balanced by bottom stresses and predominantly nonlinear triad interactions. This model confirms and improves upon existing weakly nonlinear theories.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2022)
Article
Mechanics
Kianoosh Yousefi, Fabrice Veron, Marc P. Buckley
Summary: By analyzing high-resolution laboratory measurements of airflow velocity above wind-generated surface waves, it was found that turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) and wave kinetic energy (WKE) production differ at different heights, indicating energy transfer between different components. Additionally, interactions between turbulence and wave perturbations show distinct energy transfer patterns.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2021)
Article
Mechanics
Tao Cao, Lian Shen
Summary: This study investigates the effects of fast-propagating water waves on overlying wind through simulation and theoretical analysis. The results indicate that the wave-induced airflow is mainly caused by the vertical movement of the wave surface, and the effects of turbulent stress on fast wave-induced airflow are negligible. The study also shows that the curvilinear model developed by Cao et al. provides accurate predictions for wind following fast waves.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2021)
Article
Mechanics
Alexander Dosaev, Yuliya I. Troitskaya, Victor I. Shrira
Summary: The front-back asymmetry of gravity-capillary waves is mainly caused by the asymmetric distribution of capillary ripples, with Reynolds stresses being the most significant factor in the absence of wave breaking. The asymmetry depends on factors such as wave forcing, viscosity, surface tension, and wave characteristics. The model's results are in reasonable agreement with experimental data in regimes without breaking or microbreaking.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2021)
Article
Mechanics
Falk Feddersen, Adam M. M. Fincham, Katherine L. L. Brodie, Adam P. P. Young, M. S. Spydell, Derek J. J. Grimes, Michal Pieszka, Kentaro Hanson
Summary: The shape of shallow water breaking waves is important for various processes such as turbulence injection and sediment suspension. The shape of breaking waves depends on a nonlinear parameter H/h, where H is the wave height and h is the water depth. The effects of cross-shore wind on breaking wave shape are understudied.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2023)
Article
Mechanics
Nick Pizzo, Luc Lenain, Olav Romcke, Simen A. Ellingsen, Benjamin K. Smeltzer
Summary: This paper examines the role of Lagrangian mean flow or drift in modulating the characteristics of rotational and irrotational deep-water surface gravity waves. A general theory for progressive waves on vertically sheared steady Lagrangian mean flow is derived and mapped to the Eulerian frame. The Lagrangian viewpoint allows for flexibility and reveals key physical wave behavior. It also discusses the application of these results in remote sensing and ocean wave modeling.
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
(2023)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
O. Wurl, K. Bird, M. Cunliffe, W. M. Landing, U. Miller, N. I. H. Mustaffa, M. Ribas-Ribas, C. Witte, C. J. Zappa
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2018)
Article
Oceanography
Nathan J. M. Laxague, Christopher J. Zappa, Deborah A. LeBel, Michael L. Banner
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2018)
Article
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Christine F. Dow, Won Sang Lee, Jamin S. Greenbaum, Chad A. Greene, Donald D. Blankenship, Kristin Poinar, Alexander L. Forrest, Duncan A. Young, Christopher J. Zappa
Article
Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences
Alejandro Cifuentes-Lorenzen, James B. Edson, Christopher J. Zappa
BOUNDARY-LAYER METEOROLOGY
(2018)
Article
Oceanography
Oliver Wurl, William M. Landing, Nur Ili Hamizah Mustaffa, Mariana Ribas-Ribas, Carson Riggs Witte, Christopher J. Zappa
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2019)
Article
Limnology
Brian A. Brigham, Jeffrey A. Bird, Andrew R. Juhl, Christopher J. Zappa, Angel D. Montero, Gregory D. O'Mullan
LIMNOLOGY AND OCEANOGRAPHY
(2019)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Christopher J. Zappa, Nathan J. M. Laxague, Sophia E. Brumer, Steven P. Anderson
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2019)
Article
Oceanography
Mingming Shao, David G. Ortiz-Suslow, Brian K. Haus, Bjorn Lund, Neil J. Williams, Tamay M. Ozgokmen, Nathan J. M. Laxague, Jochen Horstmann, Jody M. Klymak
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
(2019)
Article
Geosciences, Multidisciplinary
Nathan J. M. Laxague, Christopher J. Zappa
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
(2020)
Article
Environmental Sciences
Christopher J. Zappa, Scott M. Brown, Nathan J. M. Laxague, Tejendra Dhakal, Ryan A. Harris, Aaron M. Farber, Ajit Subramaniam
FRONTIERS IN MARINE SCIENCE
(2020)
Review
Environmental Sciences
Sebastiaan Swart, Sarah T. Gille, Bruno Delille, Simon Josey, Matthew Mazloff, Louise Newman, Andrew F. Thompson, Jim Thomson, Brian Ward, Marcel D. du Plessis, Elizabeth C. Kent, James Girton, Luke Gregor, Petra Heil, Patrick Hyder, Luciano Ponzi Pezzi, Ronald Buss de Souza, Veronica Tamsitt, Robert A. Weller, Christopher J. Zappa
FRONTIERS IN MARINE SCIENCE
(2019)